The red neon sign, the bar full of draft-beer options and the scent of hot garlic-butter bread set the tone at this longtime San Jose barbecue and steakhouse in Little Italy. It is a local place with an old-school rhythm: steaks, ribs and prime rib come on generous plates, sports play on the televisions, and dinner begins before anyone has been shown to a table.

That last part is intentional. Instead of walking straight into a dining room and settling in with a menu, guests take a number at the entrance, order from the menu there or from the wall, and wait in the bar area while the kitchen gets to work. When the meal and a table are ready, the number is called.

For a first visit, the system can seem a little backward. In practice, it gives the evening a useful two-part shape: a drink and some conversation at the bar first, followed by a full sit-down dinner without a long lag after being seated.

The order goes in before the table does

The number system is one of the restaurant's enduring quirks, and staff members are quick to help newcomers get oriented. The bar is not merely a place to kill time; it is a working part of the meal, especially when local fans have gathered around the TVs before a game.

Once a table opens up, the transition is brisk. Salads and garlic bread commonly arrive before the main course, followed by the barbecue, steak or prime rib that was ordered at the door. It is a sensible format for a place that draws both relaxed dinner crowds and people watching the clock before an event.

On busy Friday and Saturday evenings, the bar wait can be longer, particularly when SAP Center has something on the calendar. Reservations may not be part of the routine here, so the ordering ritual is worth knowing about before you arrive.

Ribs, tri-tip and prime rib

The menu’s center of gravity is straightforward and deeply appealing: barbecue, steaks and prime rib. Baby back ribs are a familiar favorite, with tender meat that pulls easily from the bone, a textured exterior and barbecue sauce on hand for those who want it.

Tri-tip shows up in more than one form. It can arrive as a sandwich, or add smoky, richly flavored slices to a Caesar salad. That makes it a useful choice for lunch, when a salad may sound better than a full steak plate but the desire for barbecue has not gone anywhere.

Prime rib has its own following, served moist and flavorful with fresh horseradish available alongside it. The horseradish is a small but important old-school touch: sharp enough to wake up a rich slice of beef without turning the plate into a stunt.

Pork chops, pork belly and grilled salmon Caesar salad broaden the choices beyond the headline meats. Baked potatoes and mushrooms offer the familiar steakhouse side-dish lane, while the overall scale of the portions means leftovers are a common outcome rather than a surprise.

Do not underestimate the garlic bread

The signature accompaniment is garlic-butter bread, served hot or toasted and thoroughly soaked with garlic and butter. It arrives early in the meal, which is probably wise. Put a basket of it next to a salad and it becomes very easy to forget that ribs or ribeye are still coming.

Steak plates, including New York steak and ribeye, are often paired with salad, baked potato and garlic butter. The formula is not trying to reinvent the American steak dinner. It is simply generous, familiar and built for people who appreciate the point of a baked potato sitting beside a serious piece of beef.

A bar with a job to do

A varied draft-beer selection gives the bar enough range for an unhurried drink before dinner. The room has the welcoming, hometown quality of a place where regulars and out-of-towners can occupy neighboring stools without either group seeming out of place.

Sports fans add energy when games are on, but the setting still leaves room for conversation. It works nicely for taking visiting friends to a distinctly San Jose meal: not a polished theater-district production, but a lively restaurant with its own procedures, its own pace and a menu that knows exactly what it wants to serve.

Little Italy and an arena-night meal

The restaurant sits in San Jose’s Little Italy area, about two blocks from SAP Center. That easy walk has made it a natural pregame stop for Sharks games and other arena events, when a beer at the bar and a substantial dinner can fit neatly into the evening.

There is indoor dining, the bar area and outdoor patio seating. The patio has also accommodated dogs, though outdoor arrangements and menu availability are sensible things to confirm for a particular visit.

Parking around the restaurant can take some patience. Street spaces, paid lots and garages are in the mix, and arena traffic can raise the stakes. Once inside, though, the routine is simple: take a number, choose your meat, settle in at the bar and wait for dinner to be called.