Burnt Ends and Big Barbecue Plates in Greenwood Village

The burnt ends arrive with the contrast barbecue fans hope for: tender meat at the center, with a darker, crispier exterior that gives each bite a little chew and edge. In Greenwood Village, that specialty appears in enough forms to make a return trip easy to justify.

You can keep things simple with a burnt-end platter, or take the less direct route through a sandwich, melt, bowl or a heap of loaded fries. The burnt-end duo platter is especially useful for a table that does not want to choose just one meat; it pairs two selections with sides.

The food here is built for a casual, fill-the-table meal rather than delicate picking. Plates and sandwiches come in generous portions, and the range of sides gives diners plenty of ways to build a lunch or dinner around the barbecue.

The dedicated burnt-end sandwich choices give this kitchen room to play with the signature meat. One combination brings together burnt ends, coleslaw and onion straws, putting cool crunch and fried crunch around the smoky centerpiece.

The burnt-end melt takes a different direction, giving the meat a sandwich format that is a little more indulgent. Then there are smothered burnt-end fries, a favorite for diners who prefer their barbecue over a bed of crisp potatoes rather than beside one.

Bowls offer another option when a full sandwich is not the mood, while platters keep the focus on the meat and sides. It is a menu that makes sampling fairly natural, especially with a few people at the table.

Before settling into one sauce, pause at the self-serve condiment area. It is set up for mixing and matching, so brisket, ribs, fries and burnt ends do not all have to wear the same flavor.

Chipotle, southwest and house fire sauce offer a useful range. The southwest sauce brings a fruity tang, while the fire sauce has clear heat without burying the barbecue beneath it.

That little bit of control changes the meal nicely. A diner can keep the first bites plain to get the smoke and seasoning, then add chipotle to fries or test a spicier sauce against a rich piece of brisket.

Baked beans, coleslaw, macaroni and cheese, fries and potato wedges provide the familiar barbecue-table choices, but they do not all land in the same rich-and-heavy lane. The coleslaw is mild and refreshing alongside smoky meat, a useful reset between bites.

The macaroni and cheese is lighter in consistency than the thick, casserole-like version some barbecue restaurants serve. That makes it an easy side to pair with a substantial sandwich or a platter already carrying Texas toast.

Potato wedges come crisp, and the fries have enough appeal to invite a dip in chipotle barbecue sauce. The creamy spicy corn, offered as a special, is another side to watch for; sample tastes may be available before ordering.

Burnt ends may get the attention, but the barbecue roster is broad. Brisket, sausage, ribs, wings, pork, barbecue sandwiches and assorted platters give a mixed group plenty of choices without sending anyone elsewhere for dinner.

There is also a steak burger, a repeat order for diners who happen to be in the mood for a burger instead of smoked meat. It makes a convincing case for not treating the menu as a one-note barbecue affair.

Draft beer fits naturally alongside a plate of ribs or a burnt-end sandwich. Colorado selections have included Breckenridge Brewery's strawberry Kölsch, a lighter, fruit-leaning counterpoint to a smoky meal.

The dining room is straightforward rather than showy, with enough space for larger groups and a generally calm setting for conversation. It suits a quick lunch, a family dinner or a table of coworkers comparing sauce choices.

Food commonly comes out promptly, and first-time diners may get a small taste of burnt ends or sauces while deciding what to order. That is a welcome touch on a menu with enough possibilities to inspire a little indecision.

For larger meals beyond the dining room, catering and delivery are available, including barbecue for group orders arranged on short notice. A free lot provides ample parking, reservations are not generally needed for a typical visit, and unsecured customer Wi-Fi is available.