At Fargo's, dinner starts under stained-glass windows and among enough saloon-style scenery to keep eyes wandering while everyone decides on pizza. The Colorado Springs restaurant turns an ordinary pizza outing into a busy, playful indoor excursion, with grand dining rooms, vintage decorative pieces, mannequins and an elevated balcony all sharing the stage.

The old-Western theme is not handled as a single backdrop behind the tables. Costumes, display objects and visual surprises are worked throughout the rooms, giving the place the pleasantly cluttered character of a family attraction that also happens to make pizza and ravioli.

For many families, that combination is the appeal. Fargo's works for a quick meal, but it also has enough to occupy a birthday group, a multigenerational table or out-of-town guests who would rather not spend the evening in a standard dining room.

A counter order with a mirror to watch

Service runs on a counter-order system rather than conventional table service. After placing an order, diners keep an eye on mirrors around the restaurant, where their order number appears when the food is ready.

Then it is time to walk to the pickup area and collect the meal. It is a simple system, but the mirrored number board fits Fargo's theatrical surroundings better than a buzzer or a name called across the room would.

The process also gives the meal a looser rhythm. Order first, find a table, study the décor, perhaps make a game-room detour, and glance up at the mirrors now and then.

Pizza, plus the comfort-food backup plan

Pizza remains central to the menu, arriving with plenty of cheese, sauce and toppings. The crust is often noted for being light and airy, sometimes with a little crispness; diners who favor a softer, saucier, extra-cheesy slice will find that style in the mix as well.

A large pizza makes sense for a group settling in for an evening of arcade games and wandering, while a straightforward cheese pizza keeps younger eaters happy. Chicken Alfredo pizza offers a richer change of pace from the usual red-sauce order.

The Italian-American choices extend beyond the pizza pans. Cheese ravioli can come with marinara or meat sauce, a useful option for someone at the table who is ready for a fork instead of another slice. A salad bar adds another familiar stop before the main meal.

There is also a gluten-free crust option, limited to small 9-inch pizzas. It is a specific pizza choice rather than a promise of a broad gluten-free menu, but it gives a smaller group or individual diner another way to join in.

Drinks can be kept simple at the soda fountain, whose ice has its own small following, or paired with the restaurant's broad beer selection. The food is sturdy, shareable and well suited to a table where people may be getting up and coming back between bites.

The rooms are meant to be explored

Fargo's dining spaces have a nostalgic, deliberately overstuffed look that longtime visitors recognize from childhood trips. The décor has held onto its familiar personality over the years rather than chasing a stripped-down modern restaurant style.

Mannequins appear among the displays, while vintage furnishings and decorative objects give each sightline another small distraction. One table might be studying a menu while another person is looking up toward the balcony or taking in the stained glass.

The scale helps, too. Large dining rooms can handle a small family meal without requiring everyone to rush through it, and they have room for bigger gatherings, parties and reunion-style tables.

A quarter for the player piano

One of Fargo's most charming old-fashioned diversions is the player piano. Drop in a quarter to activate it, and the dining room gets another layer of saloon flavor without anyone having to leave the table.

That little ritual explains why the restaurant can be especially sticky in family memory. A child can remember the piano, return years later, and find the same sort of whimsical visual world waiting around the next corner.

Arcade detours and family energy

The game room gives the evening another destination after the plates have been picked up. Pac-Man, Galaga and Skee-Ball are among the recognizable arcade favorites associated with the room, mixing old-school games with the restaurant's throwback atmosphere.

A magician has also appeared as part of the family entertainment at times, though that is not something to count on for every visit. The larger point is that Fargo's treats dinner as more than the time spent seated at a table.

The rooms can be lively, particularly when parties and family groups are in full swing. Conversation is still possible, but this is better pictured as an energetic pizza night than a hushed Italian dinner.

A useful setup for groups

Free parking is available in the restaurant lot, and all dining is indoors. The counter ordering, shared pizzas and broad seating setup make the place easy to use for groups with different appetites and different attention spans.

Fargo's has the kind of details that invite a slow browse between bites: a mirror number to monitor, a piano waiting for a quarter, arcade games down the way and another odd decorative object in the dining room. Dinner may be finished before the wandering is.