Columbus Inn Brings a Big Night Out to a Rustic Wilmington House

A plate of blackened trout stuffed with cornbread is a good introduction to Columbus Inn’s way of doing dinner. It is familiar enough to sound comforting, then given a more thoughtful turn; collard greens have accompanied it with the same rich, tender-minded approach.

Set in a rustic-looking house in Wilmington, Columbus Inn has the pleasant ability to cover a lot of ground. It can be a polished steak-and-seafood dinner, a round of cocktails and appetizers at the bar, a porch-table meal, or a larger family occasion gathered in a private room.

The setting is warm rather than stiff, and the menu is broad without reading like a collection of compromises. Seafood, steaks, short ribs, pork, pasta, pizza, burgers, sandwiches and stir-fry-inspired dishes give a mixed table plenty of directions to take.

The opening part of a meal offers plenty to pass around. Oysters and crab cocktail give the seafood-minded table a clean start, while calamari, deviled eggs and pork belly head in a more classic tavern direction.

Then there are the cheesesteak egg rolls, which put a local sandwich idea into shareable form. Burnt-end brisket bites, served with a flavorful sauce and sometimes presented over potato salad, are for the group that wants something a little more substantial before the main course.

The focaccia arrives topped with burrata and tomatoes, a useful choice when the table wants something lighter but not timid. Perogies paired with pork belly take the opposite route: rich, savory and very much worth dividing up before everyone settles on an entrée.

Columbus Inn does not ask everyone at the table to be in the mood for the same thing. Someone can order steak frites while another goes for gnocchi, chicken parmesan, a burger or a filet mignon sandwich. Pizza and shrimp tacos broaden the options further, and even chicken fingers have made a successful meal for a younger diner.

Steak lovers have several paths, from filet dishes and steak medallions to a New York strip. The Filet Oscar is an especially dressed-up choice, pairing filet mignon with hollandaise, crab and asparagus.

Short rib shows up with maple, bourbon and black pepper in the mix, balancing sweet warmth and savory depth. Different preparations have brought broccoli or cheesy broccoli alongside, an appropriately hearty companion to a dish that is not trying to be delicate.

Pork gets its own moment in a cowboy-cut chop, including fall-spiced versions. Seasonal dishes also keep the menu from becoming overly predictable: salmon has appeared with mushroom-and-butternut-squash risotto, and pan-roasted Jail Island salmon has been another seafood option.

The food is presented with care, from bright oysters and hot starters to composed steak and seafood plates. That polish does not come at the expense of portion size. Entrées and salads tend to arrive as proper meals, not small decorative arrangements.

That makes Columbus Inn especially easy to use for a lingering dinner. You can begin with a few shared plates, move into a full entrée, and still have reason to inspect the dessert list rather than simply wave it away.

A peanut butter cup dessert is the sort of ending that can pull a table toward sharing even after a generous meal. Pumpkin brûlée has also appeared among the sweets, offering a seasonal alternative to the chocolate-and-peanut-butter route.

The cocktail list has included an Apple Bourbon Smash, an Apple Spritz and an agave margarita, alongside other full-strength house drinks. There is also a notable wine selection, useful when dinner is more of an occasion than a quick stop.

The building gives diners several ways to settle in. The main dining areas and booths suit an unhurried dinner, and the atmosphere there can be relaxed enough for easy conversation. Attractive décor and the old-house setting keep the room from feeling generic.

The separate bar has a different tempo. It is lively and visually distinct from the dining room, but can still work nicely for a solo drink or a casual meal. Bar seating has also accommodated walk-in dining on some evenings, though availability naturally shifts with the day and time.

Out front, the porch offers outdoor seating with a view toward the street. It retains the cozy quality of the rest of the property, making it a pleasant alternative when porch dining is available.

Columbus Inn has the range to handle date night without making a birthday table feel out of place. Private rooms have hosted baby showers, family brunches and other celebrations, with brunch spreads that have included eggs, pasta, bacon and chicken.

That flexibility is helped along by service that is welcoming, attentive and knowledgeable about the many directions on the menu. A group can keep things simple with burgers and sandwiches, or make an evening of seafood, steak, wine and dessert.

There is a free parking lot at the property, and parking is often ample, though spaces can be tighter during busy weekend periods. Reservations are advisable for dinner plans and celebrations, particularly when private dining space is involved.