Southern Seafood and River Views at Vic’s On the River

A basket of small biscuits with honey butter is a fine way to settle into Vic’s On the River. They arrive before the larger decisions begin: shrimp and grits or she-crab soup, scallops or flounder, a steak dinner or a round of oysters and cocktails at the bar.

The restaurant sits above Savannah’s river walk, not down at river-walk level. From some tables and terrace seats, the view reaches toward the water and passing container ships; from others, it takes in historic streets, old trees and the city’s familiar drapery of moss.

It is a polished room without a stiff collar. Lunch can be a relaxed pause in a day downtown, while dinner has more occasion to it, especially when live piano is on the program. The setting suits an anniversary or birthday, but it also works nicely for a long, unhurried meal after a walk along the riverfront.

Vic’s gives diners several ways to settle in. There are indoor tables, booths and counter seating, along with a bar that can handle a casual drink, appetizers or a full dinner. Outdoor patio or terrace tables add the riverfront setting to the meal.

The different seating options matter here because the views are not all the same. A river-facing table has its own appeal, but the historic-street outlook can be just as Savannah in character, with the city unfolding beyond the dining room rather than the water.

The outdoor seats are particularly scenic, though direct sun can be strong at certain times of day. Inside, the atmosphere remains comfortable and dressed-up enough for a celebration without asking diners to make an evening of formalities.

Those little honey-butter biscuits are an easy opening move, especially if the table plans to share a few starters. They also have a useful secondary purpose: soaking up the tomato broth that has accompanied catfish and grits.

The she-crab soup is one of the menu’s enduringly tempting directions, creamy and notably generous with crab. It is the sort of starter that can make ordering an entrée feel slightly less urgent, though the main-course list gives plenty of reasons to continue.

Crawfish beignets take a more playful route. These savory seafood pastries have been served in an empanada-like form with chopped spring onions and a sweet-spicy Tabasco syrup, bringing a little heat and sweetness to the first course.

Fried green tomatoes have also appeared with goat cheese, tomato chutney, balsamic and cheddar grits. That combination puts several Southern favorites on one plate without turning it into a novelty act.

For oyster fans, the menu has offered several preparations, including Oysters Rockefeller and specials dressed with lemon and onion vinaigrette. Other crab and shellfish choices have included blue crab beignets, crab cakes, crab bisque and crawfish empanadas.

Shrimp and grits are a natural order in this part of Georgia, but Vic’s version earns attention for the details around the shrimp. Smoked sausage, corn and tomato join the bowl, and a tomato broth has appeared in the dish as well, giving the grits more depth than a simple cream-and-butter treatment.

It is a substantial plate, built for dinner but not out of place at lunch if a Southern seafood meal is the plan. The mix of shrimp, sausage and vegetables gives it enough going on that it does not need much help from the side dishes.

Catfish and grits is another strong option for diners who prefer a crisp fillet to shellfish. Served with tomato broth in one presentation, it practically invites an extra biscuit to the plate.

The kitchen moves well beyond shrimp and grits. Seared scallops over risotto offer a richer, more composed seafood entrée, while pecan-encrusted flounder brings a distinctly Southern crunch to a delicate fish.

Striped bass, Oscar salmon and blackened shrimp pasta have also been among the seafood choices. The result is a menu broad enough for a table where one person wants a familiar coastal dish and another is hoping for a more elaborate entrée.

That range makes it easier to order around the table rather than settle on a single obvious choice. A bowl of soup, a shared oyster plate and a few different mains can turn dinner into a fairly generous survey of the kitchen.

Vic’s is not limited to seafood, which is useful when the dining party has mixed appetites. Filet mignon has been paired with asparagus, collard greens, truffle fries or peppercorn sauce, giving the steak side of the menu the same Southern-meets-upscale treatment as the fish.

Ribeye has appeared with a flame-grilled char and accompaniments such as cowboy butter or peach demi-glaze. It is a good reminder that the kitchen does not reserve its bolder flavors for seafood alone.

Traditional Southern meatloaf offers a more homespun route, with sweet glaze, house mashed potatoes and green beans. Fried chicken is another land-based choice, making the restaurant a comfortable pick even when not everyone at the table is in the mood for oysters.

The bar gives Vic’s an easygoing side. A blueberry lemon drop, blueberry espresso martini or Old Fashioned can start the evening, while a glass of Malbec fits naturally with steak, meatloaf or a richer seafood plate.

On some dinner services, live piano adds another layer to the room. The music can range beyond expected standards; inventive versions of familiar Michael Jackson songs have made their way into the performance. It is a pleasant bit of personality rather than a reason to rush through dinner.

Dessert keeps the menu in familiar, well-chosen territory: crème brûlée, key lime pie, flourless chocolate torte, cheesecake and a peach trio. The crème brûlée, with its flambéed sugar lid, vanilla-bean custard and fresh fruit, makes a particularly satisfying finish for diners still willing to make room.

The entrance can take a moment to locate because Vic’s is reached by elevator through the adjacent cafe/building. It is important not to confuse the elevated restaurant with the separate Vic’s River Grill down on the river walk.

Parking nearby is limited. Paid street spaces and paid lots are among the nearby options, and the riverfront location is easy to approach on foot when that fits the day’s plans.

Reservations can be useful during popular meal periods, though demand varies with the day and time. The restaurant accommodates both smaller and larger groups, and the staff can help guide a table through the menu; shared dining is also possible, including splitting an entrée between two guests.