A bowl of creamy guacamole, a basket of crunchy chips and a hot skillet of queso fundido make a fine opening move in this polished, lively River North restaurant. The menu is built for the pleasant table clutter that follows: a few starters in the middle, a round of tacos, perhaps a plate of quesabirrias, and drinks colorful enough to hold their own.

The room has warm lighting, lush greenery and an upscale finish without a stiff mood. It can suit a date night or anniversary meal just as easily as a birthday dinner with family, a group gathering, or a leisurely weekend brunch.

Early in an evening, the restaurant can be a comfortable spot to settle into conversation over a margarita. As the room fills, the energy rises considerably, giving dinner more of a celebratory hum.

Start in the middle of the table

Guacamole comes in more than one direction. The traditional version is creamy and brightened with enough acidity to keep each scoop lively against the salty crunch of the tortilla chips. Mango and pomegranate versions give a group an excuse to order beyond the familiar.

Queso fundido is another reliable table-starter: hot, melty cheese served with salsa, designed for reaching in before the tacos arrive. It is simple food, but the sort of simple food that tends to disappear quickly when a table has been waiting on drinks.

Sharing is not merely a polite suggestion here. Queso fundido, steak frites and al pastor tacos have made a substantial meal for two, while a table of three can work through short-rib quesabirrias alongside lobster and mahi mahi tacos without treating the order as a snack.

Quesabirrias worth dipping

The short-rib quesabirrias bring one of the menu's most satisfying contrasts: crisped tortillas around tender, juicy meat, with consommé alongside for dipping. They are the item to order when the table wants something a little more involved than picking up a single taco and moving on.

Birria tacos add another route into the same rich, beefy territory. Fresh tortillas are a recurring detail across the menu, and they matter here, where a good tortilla has to hold its shape long enough to make that final dunk in consommé.

A taco list with room to roam

Taco choices run broadly through carne, chicken, al pastor, fish, lobster, mahi mahi, hongos and birria. That range makes ordering for a mixed table pleasantly easy: one person can stay with al pastor, another can go straight for seafood, and a vegetarian can look toward the mushroom option.

Lobster tacos make a more indulgent turn, while fish and mahi mahi keep the seafood side of the menu in play. Al pastor remains a sensible anchor for diners who want something classic in spirit, even as the broader menu takes a more contemporary, Mexican-inspired approach.

Vegetarian dishes are clearly labeled. Vegan food has also been a welcome option for diners, though the full range of vegan choices is best confirmed from the current menu.

Brunch with both forks and glasses in mind

Weekend brunch goes well beyond a reduced taco menu. Carnitas hash layers crispy hash browns with slow-braised pork carnitas, chipotle aioli, cilantro, onion and a sunny-side-up egg. It is a hearty plate with enough different textures to keep every bite from tasting the same.

The breakfast burrito takes a similarly substantial approach, with chorizo, eggs, avocado, queso fresco, pico de gallo, black beans and sour cream, plus a side salad. Chilaquiles, flautas, steak and eggs, and French toast broaden the field for a table where not everybody woke up wanting the same thing.

The French toast is thick, soft and unapologetically indulgent, with a café de olla drizzle sometimes adding a coffee-spiced note. Churro bites provide another sweet finish; they are notably soft rather than brittle, more melt-in-the-mouth than hard-crunchy.

Bottomless brunch adds cocktails to the social side of the meal, including watermelon drinks, traditional margaritas and Bloody Marys. Current terms and inclusions can change, but the basic idea is clear: brunch can be a full meal, a long catch-up, or both.

Margaritas, watermelon and a good mocktail

The cocktail list has enough personality that a drink order need not be an afterthought. The Amiga Sandía mixes blanco tequila with watermelon, lime and basil, a refreshing combination that fits particularly well beside spicy or rich plates.

A Margarita Tradicional keeps to blanco tequila, Grand Marnier, lime and agave. Elsewhere on the list, a prickly passion cocktail and a spicy Bloody Mary offer more adventurous routes, especially around brunch.

Non-drinkers are not limited to a plain soft drink. Lychee Loca and Shake the Mango Tree give the mocktail list some proper presence; the latter is specifically built as a nonalcoholic cocktail. The bar area is a natural choice for a shorter meal or a drink-and-snacks stop.

Spaces for dinner, drinks and gatherings

Indoor dining is joined by bar seating and an outdoor patio or terrace, offering a few different ways to use the restaurant. The main dining room carries the stylish, warmly lit character of the place, while the lower lounge has a lower ceiling and a more intimate event-room feel.

That lounge has accommodated special gatherings, including an event happy hour with mini chicken burritos, guacamole and drinks. It is a useful setting for a private-feeling celebration, though a busy event in the low-ceilinged space can make conversation more difficult.

The staff is attentive and friendly, and menu or drink recommendations are readily available. That is especially helpful when a group is trying to divide its attention among guacamole variations, several taco fillings, quesabirrias and a cocktail list with more choices than the standard margarita.

A few useful details before dinner

Larger parties, celebrations and popular brunch or dinner times are good occasions to reserve ahead. The restaurant has accommodated solo diners, pairs and bigger tables, but its busiest periods bring a fuller, louder room.

Parking in the area may mean paid street parking, a garage, a paid lot or valet service. Once inside, the useful decision is less about finding one signature order than choosing how much of the table you are willing to share.