A dipped waffle cone is a fine way to begin a stop in Converse, especially when the ice cream arrives in the kind of generous portion that can make two scoops look more ambitious than expected. This small-town combination ice-cream shop and diner gives dessert its proper place, but it also has enough burgers, baskets and sandwiches to handle dinner.

Inside, the mood is old-fashioned soda fountain rather than polished retro theme restaurant. The room is open, clean and homey, with diner decor that suits a family meal, a quick cone, or a lingering summer-night supper before everybody decides they still have room for a shake.

The dessert menu is not an afterthought

Ice cream is a major reason to come by, and the choices go well beyond a scoop in a dish. There are shakes, floats, sundaes and cones, including original-style chocolate-dipped waffle cones. A simple order can turn into a serious dessert once the toppings and cone enter the picture.

The Grasshopper is one of the menu's more playful names. It is a crunchy mint sundae, not an insect-related dare, and it gives the frozen-treat list a little soda-fountain personality.

Floats are available for someone who prefers a drinkable dessert, and hot fudge milkshakes bring an extra layer of richness to the usual shake routine. The ice-cold XXX Root Beer has its own following, too; it is an especially fitting choice for a float or simply alongside a burger basket.

Generous servings matter here. A two-scoop order can be plenty, particularly after a full meal. That makes the place easy to use in two different ways: stop in strictly for ice cream, or save room after dinner and split the dessert decision among the table.

A diner menu with real range

The savory side of the menu is broad enough that nobody needs to pretend a cone counts as dinner. Burgers, tenderloins, chicken, fish, sandwiches, fries and casual baskets fill out the board, giving a mixed-age group plenty of familiar choices.

Burgers include bacon cheeseburgers and Angus-beef burgers, with a bacon cheeseburger basket standing out as a particularly satisfying order. A basket is a sensible route when the table wants a straightforward diner meal without much fuss.

The tenderloin sandwich is another favorite, and it has the sturdy, comfort-food appeal people hope for when they see tenderloin listed on a small-town menu. It is the sort of order that can make a return visit feel justified before dessert is even considered.

Chicken appears in several forms, including fried chicken, chicken tenders and breaded chicken sandwiches. The tenders are notably substantial, a useful detail for diners who want a meal with enough heft to carry them past the ice-cream counter.

Fish, brisket and the useful extras

There is more here than the standard burger-and-fries rotation. Fish baskets, beef brisket, corn dogs and cheese curds widen the choices, while turkey clubs and club sandwiches offer a familiar sandwich-shop lane for someone in the group who is not chasing fried food.

Sides have their own small role to play. Seasoned fries, crisp fries and kettle chips give sandwich and basket orders a little flexibility. The fries belong with a burger, of course, but kettle chips can make a club sandwich feel like a proper lunch-counter plate.

Barbecue specials, including brisket, have appeared on the menu, and rotating ideas from the owner keep the offerings from being entirely fixed in place. Those specials are worth noticing when available; the diner has room for a little variety alongside its dependable classics.

Order dinner first, then make the hard choice

The counter-style diner setup keeps the visit informal. You can arrive with a clear plan for an ice-cream cone and find yourself weighing tenderloin against a fish basket, or come for dinner and end up studying sundae options while clearing the last fries from the tray.

Meals are prepared after ordering rather than sitting under a heat lamp, which suits food meant to be eaten hot and promptly. Portions can be generous enough that leftovers are not unusual, particularly after a basket, sandwich and frozen treat all make their way into the same visit.

That mix is helpful for families. One person can order chicken tenders, another can go for a burger, somebody can choose a float, and the group does not have to agree on a single kind of outing. It can be dinner, dessert, or both in pleasantly unceremonious fashion.

A natural family stop

The atmosphere is friendly and welcoming without requiring an occasion. Families return with children, and the old-fashioned setting has the easy familiarity that encourages a repeat stop after a game, on a drive through town, or when a warm evening calls for ice cream.

Indoor and outdoor dining give the visit a little flexibility. On one day, a table inside may suit a full meal; on another, a cone outside can be the entire plan.

Weekends can be busy, which adds to the lively small-town feel but may not be ideal for someone hoping for a quiet, unhurried stop. At less crowded times, it is easier to linger over a root beer float or take a few extra minutes deciding between a sundae and that chocolate-dipped waffle cone.

Keep room for one more spoonful

The appeal in Converse is the combination: a tenderloin sandwich can be followed by a Grasshopper, a bacon cheeseburger can share the table with an ice-cold root beer, and a child can treat a cone as the main event while the adults order dinner.

For a place with soda-fountain charm, it has a refreshingly practical sense of abundance. A hot basket, crisp side of fries and an oversized ice-cream order are all perfectly reasonable ways to spend the same evening.