The shrimp cocktail arrives before almost anything else at St. Elmo Steak House, and it sets a brisk tone for dinner. Plump shrimp come with a cocktail sauce loaded with grated horseradish—an unapologetically sharp, sinus-clearing dose that has become one of Indianapolis’s best-known restaurant rituals.

This is not a mild little dip to swipe across a shrimp without thinking. A measured first taste is sensible, especially for diners who have learned the hard way that horseradish can sneak up on you. For plenty of regulars, though, the jolt is precisely the point: dinner starts with a little drama, then moves on to the steak.

St. Elmo has the reassuring grammar of a classic American steakhouse: formal service, substantial cuts of beef, warm bread, potatoes, dark wood, and enough separate rooms to make the interior seem far larger than the building suggests from outside. It can handle a birthday table, a business dinner, a proper night out, or a solo meal at the bar with equal ease.

A restaurant with more than one room

Inside, the dining spaces spread across upstairs and downstairs areas rather than resolving into one big, interchangeable room. The rooms have their own character, which gives a longer dinner a pleasant sense of discovery as you move through the restaurant.

Hardwood, books, and formally dressed servers establish the old-school mood without requiring a theme-restaurant performance. The setting is polished and traditional, a place where a well-set table and a knowledgeable server still matter.

The volume can change considerably from room to room and from one occasion to another. Some dinners are lively, particularly around larger gatherings, while other tables have found the conversation easy to keep. It is a restaurant with enough moving parts that the atmosphere is not identical everywhere.

The steak order

After the shrimp cocktail, the menu turns to the serious business of steak. Filet, ribeye, a cowboy bone-in ribeye, prime rib, and dry-aged strip give diners a classic range of choices, from tender and restrained to boldly marbled and bone-in.

The appeal is straightforward: steaks cooked to the requested temperature, rich beef flavor, a good char on the outside, and enough variation in the cuts that two people can order very differently and both feel they chose well. A ribeye brings the marbling; a filet keeps things leaner and softer; prime rib takes the meal in a more old-fashioned direction.

A cowboy ribeye is the sort of entrée that encourages a lingering table. It is also a natural match for a bottle from the extensive wine list. One memorable pairing has been an Etna Rosso with the bone-in ribeye, a useful reminder that steakhouse wine need not always mean the biggest Cabernet on the page.

Soup, salad, bread, and the useful things around the steak

The supporting cast is far from an afterthought. Navy Bean soup with ham is a house starter with the heft of a small meal—hot, filling, and especially welcome on a cool evening. It also appears alongside some steak orders.

The lobster bisque takes a creamier route, with a full, savory richness that fits the restaurant’s traditional menu. For a lighter opening, the house wedge brings crisp bacon bits and dressing to the familiar iceberg-steakhouse formula.

Warm bread comes with rich butter finished with crunchy sea-salt crystals. It is a small detail, but a good one: the bread basket has enough personality to make you slow down before the entrées arrive.

Sides built for sharing

A baked potato or mashed potatoes keeps the plate squarely in steakhouse territory, while steak frites offers a more direct potatoes-and-beef arrangement. The side menu gets more expansive from there, with Brussels sprouts, creamed corn, mushrooms, green beans, seasoned beans, and French fries all in the mix.

Lobster mac and cheese is the luxurious choice when plain potatoes will not do. Creamed corn brings a sweeter, softer counterpoint to a charred steak, while mushrooms are a dependable match for anyone who wants the beef flavor to stay front and center.

Then there are the onion rings. Their portion is notably generous; a group of 11 still could not finish a single order. That makes them a sensible table dish, and a reminder that restraint may be useful if dessert is already on the agenda.

Dessert and a drink with a little personality

Dessert can be kept simple with Madagascar vanilla-bean ice cream, or taken in a more celebratory direction with cheesecake and raspberry purée, crème brûlée, or chocolate mousse pie. The mousse pie is particularly rich, best treated as a full stop rather than an afterthought.

The cocktail list has room for classics such as an Old Fashioned, but the St. Elmo Cola has a more distinctive house stamp. It combines house cherry-vanilla bourbon with Coke, giving a familiar highball a sweeter, bourbon-forward twist.

That cherry-vanilla bourbon is not confined to the glass; bottles have also been available to take home. It is an unusual souvenir from a steakhouse dinner, and more memorable than leaving with only the usual leftover potatoes.

Celebrations, business dinners, and a seat at the bar

The multi-room layout makes St. Elmo comfortable for occasions that need a little ceremony. Large celebrations can be seated in private dining rooms, including multigenerational family dinners where a small child is part of the group rather than an awkward exception.

Service is a major piece of the restaurant’s appeal. Servers are attentive and personable, with the menu knowledge to guide an order and the steady presence to keep a long meal moving. A small mishap at the table has even been met with a replacement shrimp cocktail, an appropriately generous response given how central that first course is.

There is room for curiosity, too. A post-dinner walk around the restaurant and a little history from a server can turn a meal into more than a reservation and a check. Not every dinner needs the full tour, but the place has enough texture to support it.

Solo diners are not left out of the equation. When space is available, the bar can provide a comfortable place for one person to settle in with a steak, a drink, and the same attentive treatment given to the larger tables.

Planning the evening

Reservations are a good idea, particularly for preferred dining times and celebratory evenings. Bar seating may offer an opening for walk-ins or a solo meal when seats are available, but it is not something to count on.

Parking can take a little planning. Street parking, valet service, and a paid garage have been used, though finding a space is not always simple.

This is a higher-priced special-occasion meal, with dinner often running $90 or more per person. Staff have accommodated gluten allergies by altering some dishes, though specific modifications depend on the item and the meal.