A Pizza Detour Worth Making in Adair

A taco pizza can make a convincing case for taking the Adair exit. So can a BLT pizza, a signature pie called the Zipper, and the occasional appearance of pickle wrap pizza. Zipp's has built a following around the idea that a pizzeria can be a fine reason to get in the car and go somewhere.

The restaurant sits near Interstate 80 Exit 76 in Adair, putting it within easy reach of travelers crossing Iowa as well as diners from neighboring communities. People come for pizza, but not for a hurried slice-and-go proposition. The appeal is a broad, playful specialty lineup, made by hand to order and substantial enough to turn a roadside stop into the main event.

Taco pizza and BLT pizza are among the standouts, and they give a good sense of the kitchen's range. These are not novelty names added to a short standard menu; creative combinations are a central feature of the place.

The Zipper is another house favorite worth noticing when scanning the choices. Jesse James Pizza has its own following, built around a notable sauce, crust and blend of ingredients. A well-balanced pizza is often a simple matter of proportions, and Zipp's pays attention to the relationship among sauce, crust, cheese and toppings rather than letting one piece overwhelm the rest.

Then there is pickle wrap pizza, a specialty with the useful quality of being a little surprising. Its availability can vary, so it is best treated as a welcome sight on the menu rather than a guaranteed order.

Zipp's makes its pizzas by hand and offers full customization, which gives a table plenty of room to follow its own cravings. A familiar combination can be kept simple, while the more adventurous eaters can make a pass at the specialty list.

The 8-inch pizza is particularly handy here. Instead of negotiating one large pie for everybody, a pair or small group can put several different styles in the middle of the table and compare notes. Taco on one plate, BLT on another, perhaps the Zipper alongside them: it is an easy way to make dinner more of a tasting than a compromise.

Fresh, hand-prepared food naturally takes a little longer than something pulled together in a hurry, especially when the room is busy. That extra time is tied to the made-to-order approach, and the finished pizza is the point of the stop.

Cheese sticks deserve their own place in the order. They are a much-mentioned accompaniment to the pizza, and a table with several small pies has room for a side built for pulling apart and sharing.

They also solve a small but familiar pizzeria problem: the interval before the main attraction arrives. A plate of cheese sticks gives everybody something to reach for while the pizzas are coming out of the kitchen.

The menu does not stop at savory dough. Cinnamon sticks offer a straightforward sweet finish, while dessert sticks take the same general idea in another direction.

Raspberry dessert sticks are a particularly tempting choice for anyone who prefers fruit with dessert. They make a nice closing move after bolder pizzas such as taco, BLT or Jesse James, and they are easy to split around the table.

The dining room has a comfortable, welcoming character rather than the feel of a quick interstate transaction. When time permits, the owners may make their way around the room and visit with diners, a small touch that fits a restaurant drawing both regulars and people making a deliberate detour.

Zipp's has also handled a sizable traveling group, arranging outdoor tables and bringing out a varied selection of pizzas. That history suggests a place accustomed to the happy logistics of feeding a crowd: several pies, several opinions, and plenty of reasons to pass plates around.

Saturday evenings can be the busiest stretch, with lines forming after the early dinner period. At the beginning of dinner, the room can be easier to settle into before the later rush develops.

For drivers on I-80, Adair is a practical place to break up a longer run. For everybody else, Zipp's is a good excuse to make the pizza itself the destination, order a few 8-inch pies, and see which one earns the strongest vote at the table.