A Big Tenderloin Lunch at Smitty’s in South Des Moines

At Smitty’s in South Des Moines, the breaded pork tenderloin arrives with the sort of proportions that make a basket look undersized. The queen and king versions are notably large, built for a hearty lunch and, depending on your appetite, possibly a second meal later.

This is a small neighborhood diner with an old-school, midcentury character, the sort of straightforward place where the menu gets right to burgers, sandwiches, fried sides and shakes. The room is cozy rather than sprawling, and the atmosphere stays pleasantly easygoing.

Smitty’s has long been woven into the routines of South Side families, while also drawing travelers who make a point of stopping in Des Moines. It has served multiple generations of some local families, a fitting legacy for a place centered on familiar food made to order.

The standard breaded tenderloin is the obvious starting point, but the menu does not treat its signature sandwich as a one-note affair. There are queen- and king-size choices, plus versions dressed up for a bigger, messier meal.

The Taco Park Tenderloin is one of the most exuberant examples. It comes topped with lettuce, tomato, ketchup, mustard, pickle, chili and cheese, turning the classic breaded pork sandwich into a full stack of diner-counter condiments.

A chili-cheese tenderloin takes the same generous approach in another direction. It is not a subtle lunch, nor is it trying to be. Order it when a knife-and-fork strategy sounds perfectly reasonable.

There is also a vegetable tenderloin sandwich, a useful alternative in a restaurant so closely identified with pork. That wider choice helps when a table includes people with different appetites or preferences.

Homemade onion rings deserve their own place in the order. They are a frequent favorite here, fresh and substantial enough to stand beside a giant sandwich rather than disappear as an afterthought.

The fried-side lineup gives you room to build a very classic diner meal: fries, cheddar cheese curds, breaded mushrooms and jalapeño munchers all appear on the menu. A half order of onion rings is available, which is a sensible option when the tenderloin itself is already taking up most of the tray.

This is comfort food with no need for elaborate framing. A tenderloin, a pile of onion rings and a cold shake is a perfectly complete plan.

Tenderloins may get the headlines, but Smitty’s menu has plenty for diners who would rather take the burger route. Burgers, chicken sandwiches and chicken nuggets keep the choices broad enough for families and mixed groups.

The chicken-nugget order comes in a 15-piece size with fries, making it an easy shareable option for younger diners or a casual family table. Food is generally served hot and made to order, so even the simpler choices get the same freshly prepared diner treatment.

The menu works equally well for a quick solo lunch and a table where one person wants a chili-cheese tenderloin, another wants a burger, and somebody else is focused on a strawberry shake.

The shake and malt list suits the room’s retro spirit without making a production of it. Chocolate malts, Oreo shakes, strawberry shakes and vanilla shakes offer the familiar choices most people hope to find at a classic diner.

A chocolate malt has enough old-fashioned appeal to pair naturally with a basket of fried food, while an Oreo shake pushes things a little more toward dessert. Either can turn a lunch stop into a lingering one.

The setting has the tangible look of a restaurant from the 1950s rather than a polished, manufactured vintage theme. It is a mom-and-pop-style room where the scale stays intimate and conversation can be easy.

Staff members are known for being welcoming and helpful, especially with newcomers sorting through the menu or getting settled. Service is typically timely, keeping the experience informal and uncomplicated.

The dining room is small, so larger groups may find seating limited. Dine-in, takeout and delivery have all been part of the restaurant’s day-to-day rhythm, and outdoor dining has also been used.

Smitty’s fits neatly into an ordinary day around South Des Moines, including a meal before or after time at nearby Blank Park Zoo. It is also the sort of stop that gives an out-of-town drive a more local flavor than another highway-chain lunch.

A parking lot has been available for diners, and meals have often landed below $20 per person, with some individual orders costing under $10. For a place built around oversized sandwiches, that is a useful bit of old-school value.