A heavy mug of coffee, a booth or counter stool, and a plate that may be considerably bigger than expected: Becky’s Diner has the plainspoken comforts of an old-time diner, with Hobson’s Wharf and Portland’s waterfront just outside. It is a handy place to stop for breakfast, lunch or dinner, but the kitchen does not confine itself to one meal or one mood.

The setting is close to the Old Port waterfront, within walking distance of the fishing boats at the end of Hobson’s Wharf. Inside, the room has counter and booth seating along with regular tables; outside, there is additional seating, including a second-level deck.

It is the sort of restaurant where a visitor can order a Maine seafood platter while somebody nearby is working through French toast or an omelet. That wide-open approach is useful in a town where one person may want chowder and another has breakfast firmly on the mind.

The blueberry pancake order

Blueberry pancakes are the dish to know before walking in. They arrive soft and fluffy, with plenty of blueberry flavor, and the portions have a reputation for being downright enormous.

A two-stack order has been described as enough for three people to share, which gives a fair sense of the diner’s scale without promising that every plate will need a committee. If a full stack sounds ambitious, it is easy to see why someone might split it or plan on taking some away.

The rest of the breakfast menu has plenty of familiar territory: eggs Benedict, French toast, omelets, homemade hash and corned beef hash. A fresh, generously sized fruit bowl offers a lighter counterpoint to all those potatoes, eggs and griddled plates.

Lobster before noon

Lobster eggs Benedict gives breakfast a distinctly Maine turn. It is one of the more memorable ways to combine the diner’s morning menu with the seafood that draws so many people to Portland in the first place.

The homemade hash is another satisfying choice, especially for someone after a more traditional breakfast. Omelets are substantial and protein-forward, and local sourdough bread makes a worthwhile addition at the table.

French toast has its own following, too. Becky’s does not require a visitor to choose between a seaside meal and a straightforward diner breakfast; both are on hand, with enough variety to make return visits easy to justify.

Chowder, scallops and seafood plates

At lunch and dinner, the menu moves comfortably into clam chowder, fried shrimp, scallops, broiled scrod, seafood casserole, lobster rolls and a haddock Reuben. It is a broad seafood lineup rather than a narrow menu built around one famous plate.

The clam chowder is chunky and served in a tall cup, with enough substance that it can be shared. That is a useful thing to know before pairing it with a sandwich or a full seafood entrée.

Sweet scallops, fresh-tasting shrimp and broiled scrod with steamed vegetables and mashed potatoes show the range of the seafood side of the menu. The seafood casserole and scallop entrée are especially good choices when a simple sandwich will not do.

For fried-seafood fans, the fried shrimp platter comes with crinkle-cut fries. The fries have been noted for tasting fresh rather than overly heavy, a small but welcome detail beside a generous platter.

The warm lobster roll is a natural order near the wharf, while the haddock Reuben takes a diner standard in a more local direction. Portions throughout the menu are ample enough that leftovers are not unusual.

Save room for cake

Becky’s has a notably large selection of homemade desserts and cakes, which deserves a little advance planning after one of those sizable breakfasts or seafood dinners. The diner meal may be filling, but dessert does not appear to be an afterthought.

Blueberry pie with ice cream makes a fitting finish after a day around Portland, and peanut butter cake offers a richer change of pace. A shared slice can be the sensible move, though sensible is not always the point of diner cake.

A busy, lived-in waterfront stop

The atmosphere is cozy and welcoming, with the easy, lived-in quality of a long-running local restaurant. A historic marker inside notes Becky’s appearance on Guy Fieri’s television program, a bit of memorabilia that sits naturally in a place already full of diner character.

Service is friendly, attentive and efficient, including during busy periods. The dining room draws both local regulars and visitors exploring the waterfront, so meal-time crowds are part of the rhythm here.

Becky’s operates as a walk-in restaurant. Some meals begin with an immediate seat, while busier stretches can bring waits of roughly 10 to 30 minutes or longer.

A few waterfront practicalities

Parking around the waterfront can be limited or difficult, with street parking and both free and paid lots in the area. The restaurant’s location is appealing for a waterfront stroll, but it is still an active wharf setting rather than a secluded dining patio.

Outdoor seating includes the upper deck, though the waterfront can bring wharf odors that some diners may notice, particularly outside. Indoors, counter seating remains a classic option for a quick coffee-and-breakfast stop or a solo meal.

A wheelchair has been brought into the restaurant successfully, though that single experience is not enough to define the full accessibility picture. For many diners, the simplest plan is to come for the pancakes and stay long enough to see what catches the eye on the dessert list.