Parlour Brings Big Burgers and Old-School Style to West Seventh

The Parlour burger arrives with the sort of directness that suits a good neighborhood bar: a thick, beefy patty, a bun that can manage the job, and fries that invite immediate attention. In St. Paul’s West Seventh district, Parlour has built much of its reputation around that burger, but the room offers enough food, drinks and places to settle in that it can carry an entire evening.

This is a large, characterful restaurant with brick, wood, upholstered seating and a substantial bar. The old-fashioned parlor-and-saloon look gives it more personality than a standard sports-bar stop, while the comfortable seating and manageable volume make it a place where dinner conversation can continue past the first round.

The signature patty is a rich blend of brisket, ribeye and chuck. That combination gives the burger a full, steakhouse-like depth without turning it into a fussy chef project. It is hearty, properly cooked and built to hold together, which is more valuable than it sounds when a burger has this much going on.

A simple cheese-only version lets the meat do the talking. Those wanting a more loaded plate can take the egg-and-bacon route, which adds breakfast-bar richness without changing the basic appeal of the burger.

Fries are the usual companion, crisp and well seasoned, with Swiss aioli alongside. The aioli has become a favorite in its own right; it is the sort of dip that makes the last few fries on the plate worth lingering over.

The burger may be the first order of business, but Parlour has a broader menu built for mixed appetites. Chicken, walleye, salads, sides and shareable plates give a table room to move beyond the obvious choice, especially when one diner wants a full entrée and another would rather graze with a drink.

The starters have some playful bar-menu muscle. Mac and cheese, deviled eggs and fried pickles—often called frickles—make easy candidates for the middle of the table. Whipped feta or whipped goat cheese offers a softer, tangier change of pace.

Other dishes that have found their way around the dining room include chicken bites, a chicken sandwich, Brussels sprouts, hash browns and a butter lettuce salad. That range is useful on a return visit, when the burger is still tempting but not necessarily the only thing worth ordering.

Parlour also works comfortably as a brunch stop. Eggs Benedict and the Benedict burger put eggs and richer breakfast flavors near the center of the meal, while strawberry-style French toast offers a sweeter lane.

For a more traditional plate, the All American breakfast comes with pork belly bacon. It is a reminder that the kitchen is not trying to force every daytime meal into burger form.

The drink program is expansive, with creative, spirit-forward cocktails alongside a substantial tap selection. A Bloody Mary fits naturally at brunch, while names such as Heaven Sent and Underwater Tea Party signal that the bar is willing to have some fun with the list.

The large cocktail glasses can be deceptive: these are drinks with more strength than their size might suggest. That makes the room well suited to a measured dinner-and-drinks pace rather than a quick stop before moving on.

At the main bar, comfortable chairs and ample room make it easy to settle in for a cocktail even without a full meal. Attentive bartending helps the beverage side of the house feel like more than an afterthought.

Parlour’s layout is divided into several areas, which keeps a sizable restaurant from reading as one big open box. Booths are the obvious choice for a relaxed dinner, while high-tops, counter seats and bar stools make sense for a more casual meal.

A high-top area and a kitchen-facing bar offer views of the chefs at work. Watching the coordinated kitchen activity adds a little motion to the meal, particularly for diners who enjoy seeing the plates come together rather than facing only the dining room.

Outdoor patio or terrace seating has also been available, giving the restaurant another option when conditions allow. Inside, the brick, wood and upholstered furniture carry the mood: polished enough for an occasion, but not so formal that fries and a beer seem out of place.

Parlour is on West Seventh, within walking distance of the Xcel Energy Center area. That puts it in a convenient position for a meal or drinks around a Minnesota Wild game or another event, while the full-service dining room also works for date nights, group dinners and celebrations.

The staff is known for a welcoming, attentive manner and for being able to talk through the menu. For a group with different ideas about dinner, that broad menu and variety of seating are practical advantages, not just nice extras.

Parking in the area has included paid street spaces and paid lots, with conditions varying. Once inside, though, the useful choice is less about logistics and more about mood: booth, bar chair, high-top or a kitchen-facing seat, then a burger and a side of Swiss aioli.