A Big Plate of Southern Comfort at Ajax Diner in Oxford

A plate of fried catfish with a pair of sides and jalapeño cornbread is a sensible way to get acquainted with Ajax Diner. The fish arrives in generous pieces, its coating light and crisp around tender catfish, and the cornbread brings a little heat to the otherwise familiar comfort-food equation.

Ajax sits on Oxford Square, close enough to fit naturally into a day spent walking downtown, visiting the University of Mississippi area or making a cultural stop nearby. Inside, it is less polished-up occasion restaurant than relaxed neighborhood diner: booths, standard tables, counter seating and a bar give different kinds of parties somewhere to settle in.

The cooking is firmly rooted in the down-home Southern canon. Catfish, meatloaf, chicken-fried steak, chicken and dumplings, fried okra, greens, beans, casseroles and macaroni and cheese all make sense here. Come hungry, or make peace with carrying a second meal home.

Fried catfish is the order that keeps resurfacing, and it is not confined to one corner of the menu. A full platter lets the fish share space with multiple sides, while a catfish po'boy puts it on soft bread for a more sandwich-minded lunch.

The po'boy is an easy pairing with fries or fried okra, particularly if the table wants a few different textures. The house-made remoulade is worth paying attention to, adding a creamy, tangy counterpoint to the fried fish rather than leaving the plate to depend on ketchup and hot sauce alone.

Catfish cakes offer another route for diners who want the flavor without ordering a large fillet platter. Their crisp exterior is appealing precisely because it does not come across as heavy or greasy.

At Ajax, choosing the sides can take nearly as much thought as choosing the entrée. The list runs through a deep bench of Southern standards: mashed potatoes, macaroni and cheese, lima beans, black-eyed peas, red beans and rice, sweet-cream corn, turnip greens, cheesy grits and broccoli-rice casserole.

Fried okra has a particularly good reputation around the table. It stays crisp instead of slipping into the soft, steamed-in-the-breading territory that can make fried okra disappointing.

The hash brown casserole is another side with enough personality to compete for attention. It is a useful choice alongside dishes such as chicken-fried steak, where mashed potatoes may be the obvious move but a creamy, potato-rich casserole makes a fine detour.

Jalapeño cornbread comes up often, and it works especially well with a plate built around meatloaf and turnip greens. The small peppery kick keeps the meal from becoming too uniformly rich.

The meatloaf is a dependable choice for someone who wants the full blue-plate special approach. It is commonly matched with traditional vegetable sides and cornbread, making for the sort of lunch that does not need much interpretation.

Chicken-fried steak belongs in the same substantial category. With mashed potatoes and a couple of sides alongside it, this is not a light midday order, but Ajax is clearly comfortable with that fact.

Chicken and dumplings provide the softer, more old-fashioned option on a menu built for comfort. Chicken tenders are available for a simpler fried-chicken direction; they arrive with a crisp exterior and tender interior.

The large portions suit a table of different appetites. One person can commit to a catfish platter while another goes for meatloaf or chicken-fried steak, and the spread of sides keeps the meal from feeling repetitive.

The room has the casual warmth of a family dining room, with enough variety in seating to accommodate a solo lunch at the counter, a couple in a booth or a larger group at a table. The setup is informal, and diners may choose their own table before ordering.

Artwork on the walls gives the room a little more to inspect than the menu. It is worth taking a slow look around while waiting for food, especially after a walk through the Square.

Music helps keep the atmosphere loose rather than hushed. Sound levels can vary from easy conversation to moderately lively, depending on the crowd and the moment of the day.

The beverage list includes beer, wine and cocktails, so lunch does not have to stop at iced tea or a soft drink. A lemonade margarita is one cheerful option for a table sharing appetizers or lingering over a late lunch.

With so many familiar dishes competing for attention, staff guidance can be useful on a first visit. Asking for a recommendation among the catfish, meatloaf, chicken-fried steak and side dishes is a practical way to narrow the field without overthinking it.

Ajax works neatly as a pause in a downtown Oxford day, but the Square’s central location comes with a common downtown complication: parking can be challenging around lunchtime. Nearby options may include street spaces and paid lots.

Service can move quickly even at lunch or dinner, though the appeal of the place is not speed alone. A plate with several sides invites a slower look at what arrived, and leftovers are a normal possibility when the meal is done.

Meals generally fall in roughly the $10-to-$30-per-person range depending on the order. A catfish platter with sides is a fuller commitment than a sandwich, but the diner’s generous style is clear across the menu.