At Fratello’s in Manchester, industrial textile equipment hangs high above the dining room, a reminder that this warm Italian restaurant occupies a building with a working past. The old mill setting gives dinner a little more texture than the usual neighborhood pasta stop: rustic structural elements and wood remain in view, while the restaurant itself is comfortably polished and contemporary.

It is an appealing contrast. A plate of lasagna or chicken Parmesan arrives beneath the visual memory of a factory floor, and the room manages to be both substantial and inviting rather than museum-like. The building’s history is present, but dinner remains the business at hand.

A mill building with a few good corners

The restaurant offers booths, tables and a bar area, giving groups a few ways to settle in. The bar is useful for diners who prefer a more casual perch or want to begin with a drink before moving into a full meal.

Upstairs, reached by wooden stairs, the mood becomes more intimate. Dark wood, dim lighting and candlelit tables have made this level especially suited to a dinner for two; some tables have a window view as an extra small benefit.

The upper floor is not just for romance. It can also provide a quieter-feeling setting for an unhurried meal, when conversation matters as much as the menu. The stairs are worth noting for anyone planning to use the upstairs dining area.

Start with bread, then consider the seafood

Bread and breadsticks have a following here, including lunch service with several dipping options. It is the sort of opening detail that encourages a table to slow down instead of treating the first few minutes as a wait for the main course.

Calamari is one of the menu’s more discussed starters and can arrive with pasta in one preparation. The squid has been noted for tender texture and seasoned breading, a reassuringly direct way to begin an Italian meal.

Other appetizer choices have included mussels, escargot and arancini. That range gives a mixed table something to negotiate over before everyone turns to pasta, and it is pleasantly more expansive than a starter list built around a single fried item.

The large slab of lasagna

Lasagna is a natural place to start among the entrées. Fratello’s serves it as a notably large slab, substantial enough to establish the restaurant’s generous approach before the fork reaches the bottom of the dish.

The menu stretches well beyond that familiar comfort-food favorite, with ravioli, pasta dishes, veal, meatballs, chicken Parmesan, chicken piccata and tagliatelle Bolognese among the Italian standards. The Bolognese has drawn attention for balanced flavor, while the meatballs have their own loyal following.

Chicken Parmesan works especially well for a family table because it is immediately recognizable and satisfyingly straightforward. Chicken piccata offers a different direction without leaving the comfort zone of a classic Italian-American dinner.

More than red-sauce standards

Diners looking to roam a little farther have found dishes such as baked fish, carpaccio, maple salmon, Cajun shrimp with pasta and Fratello’s panera. Those options make the broad menu helpful when one person wants a traditional pasta plate and another is ready for seafood or a richer house specialty.

A pork-shank Milanese with risotto has also stood out for a hearty, rich broth. It is a reminder that the kitchen has room for dishes that are a little more elaborate than the usual pasta-and-marinara routine.

Portions tend to be substantial, so leftovers are a regular practical possibility rather than an afterthought. Taking home the remainder of a generous entrée can make a good next-day lunch.

Cocktails, wine and a little music

Creative cocktails and seasonal drinks give the bar program some personality, while the wine selection is broad enough to carry a full Italian meal from appetizers through dessert. A glass of wine beside a large pasta entrée remains a perfectly sensible plan; a seasonal cocktail is available for diners who want to take a less traditional route.

On select lunch or dinner services, a solo acoustic guitarist and singer provides background music. It adds a lived-in restaurant energy without turning the meal into a show, and the dining room can still be comfortable for conversation.

Live music is not presented as an every-service feature, so it is best regarded as a welcome possibility rather than the reason to choose a particular night.

Save room if the table can manage it

Dessert has included a berry lemon torte and peanut butter pie, two distinctly different ways to close a meal. The torte offers a brighter finish after a rich pasta or veal dish, while peanut butter pie makes a more committed case for staying at the table a little longer.

The generous portions throughout the meal may make dessert a sharing proposition. That is no hardship, especially after bread, appetizers and a main course built for a hearty appetite.

A useful choice for families and celebrations

Fratello’s can accommodate the changing scale of an evening: a couple at an upstairs table, a family making room for a child’s pasta, or a larger group gathering for a celebration. Children’s pasta portions can be notably ample, which is helpful when the youngest diner arrives hungry.

The dining room has also hosted occasions such as bridal showers, and its mix of larger seating options, a welcoming atmosphere and an expansive menu makes it easy to picture for birthdays and family get-togethers. Service is known for a friendly, attentive manner, with careful presentation at the table.

A free parking lot sits in front of the restaurant. Spaces have generally been available, though the lot can become nearly full or a little awkward to navigate during busier periods. The restrooms have been noted for being spacious and very clean, a small convenience that matters more on a lingering dinner than anyone likes to admit.