A Sweet Stop at Holsten's in New Jersey

At Holsten's, a scoop of ice cream arrives in a traditional metal dish, the sort of small detail that immediately sets the tone. This is a New Jersey luncheonette with a proper counter, red leather booths, dining tables and the busy visual appeal of a classic soda shop.

The place is more than a restaurant with dessert at the end of the meal. Holsten's combines a diner-style kitchen, an ice cream counter and a candy shop under one roof, so a visit can move easily from onion rings to a hot-fudge sundae to a bag of homemade chocolates.

Its final-scene appearance in The Sopranos has brought a second layer of fame, but the room does not depend on television nostalgia alone. Families come for a booth and a meal; solo diners can settle onto a counter stool; candy shoppers can browse without turning the stop into a full sit-down occasion.

Holsten's was used for the final scene of The Sopranos, and the connection remains visible rather than buried in a footnote. Framed photographs tied to the series are part of the décor, alongside the old-fashioned restaurant details and a collection of stuffed animals.

Fans often make a point of seeing the booth associated with the scene, complete with its nearby jukebox. It is a fun bit of New Jersey pop-culture geography, especially for anyone who remembers the suspense of that famously abrupt ending.

The booth is still part of a working restaurant, though, not a museum exhibit. Its availability depends on seating at the time, so it is best regarded as a nice bonus rather than the whole purpose of the outing.

Holsten's ice cream menu gives a person plenty of ways to be as restrained—or as unrestrained—as the moment requires. A simple cone or cup works nicely, while sundaes, banana splits, milkshakes, ice cream sodas and floats invite a more serious commitment.

Chocolate and vanilla peanut butter cup are among the flavors that have built a following, and specialty flavors rotate through the selection. S'mores and pumpkin pie have appeared among the more playful options, the sort of choices that can make a return visit feel different from the last one.

The vanilla milkshake is a straightforward soda-shop order done in the appropriate setting. Ice cream sodas and one- or two-scoop floats offer another old-fashioned route, especially for diners who want something cold and fizzy rather than a towering sundae.

Whipped cream comes from a soda-fountain-style dispenser, a wonderfully specific touch in a room that understands the value of presentation. Order hot fudge and the dessert starts looking as though it belongs beside a stack of old luncheonette menus.

A banana split is the obvious move for anyone in a celebratory mood, but the sundae list has enough variety to reward closer reading. Cherry vanilla with hot fudge is one appealing combination, and the menu also includes a brownie sundae and a variation known as the duster.

One particularly indulgent order pairs a brownie sundae with vanilla peanut butter cup ice cream. It is the sort of dessert that removes any need to pretend dinner was merely a prelude to dessert.

Before choosing, take a glance at the specials posted on the wall. In a place where rotating flavors are part of the fun, that little check can lead to something more interesting than the flavor you had already planned to order.

It would be easy to treat Holsten's as an ice cream stop, but the savory side has the sturdy appeal of a classic diner lunch or dinner. Burgers, hot dogs, grilled cheese, cheesesteaks, club sandwiches, fries and onion rings provide the foundation.

The burgers and grilled cheese are especially good choices for keeping the meal simple and familiar. A grilled cheese with ham adds a little more heft without departing from luncheonette territory.

Cheesesteak and onion rings make a recurring combination, and the onion rings are a reliable draw on their own: hot, crunchy and easy to keep picking at between bites of a sandwich. They are also a sensible table order when several people are splitting a booth and no one wants to wait for dessert to begin sharing.

A meal here can follow a pleasantly uncomplicated sequence: burger or sandwich first, then a float, shake or sundae after the plates are cleared. Of course, the ice cream menu makes a convincing case for ignoring the sequence altogether.

The dedicated candy shop gives Holsten's another reason to visit beyond a diner meal. Displays of homemade chocolates, candies and other sweets turn the stop into a browsing destination, with the familiar temptation of taking something home after dessert.

That candy-shop side of the business changes the rhythm of the room. Instead of simply paying a check and leaving, you can wander over to inspect the cases, choose a few pieces for later or pick up a small gift.

Venue merchandise, including T-shirts, is also available. For Sopranos fans, it is an easy souvenir; for regulars, it is simply another piece of a long-running neighborhood institution.

The counter seating suits one person stopping in for a shake or a couple splitting fries and a sundae. Booths offer the more lingering version of the experience, with room for family groups and an excuse to order across the menu.

The atmosphere is comfortably family-oriented without being only for children. Kids have the obvious appeal of ice cream and candy; adults have the diner food, the deep soda-shop nostalgia and, in many cases, a television location they have wanted to see in person.

The historic, compact layout includes stairs. Visitors using wheelchairs or walkers should confirm current accessibility details with Holsten's before making plans.

The dining room can fill on weekends and holidays, particularly when both family outings and Sopranos sightseeing are in the mix. The mix of counter seats, booths and tables gives the room flexibility, but it remains a compact old-school luncheonette rather than a large modern dining hall.

Street parking and parking behind the venue have both been used, though current parking arrangements are worth confirming before a visit. Holsten's has also been known as a late-day and evening stop, but current hours and the meal schedule should be checked directly.

For a first visit, there is no need to choose between the diner and dessert identities of the place. A cheesesteak with onion rings, a vanilla shake, a look at the Sopranos memorabilia and a few chocolates to carry out make a perfectly reasonable afternoon.