A Hearty New Mexico Barbecue Stop for Ribs and Green Chile Stew

The smoker is in view inside this New Mexico barbecue restaurant, and the aroma of meat in the smoke gets the meal underway before anyone has picked a side. It is a pleasingly direct introduction: ribs, brisket, pulled pork and hot links are waiting, along with the substantial plates that make barbecue dining a group-friendly proposition.

The room has the easygoing usefulness people want from a roadside meal stop or a relaxed local dinner. Booths, bar seating and counter seats give the indoors a few different rhythms, while an outdoor patio or terrace offers another place to settle in.

Ribs are the signature order here. They arrive smoky, tender and deeply savory, with the sort of soft meat that can pull readily from the bone without losing the substance of a proper rib.

Sauce may be served on the side, which is a welcome arrangement for anyone who wants a few bites of unadorned smoked pork before adding a tangy finish. The house sauce has a balanced profile rather than going heavily sweet or sharply vinegary, so it complements the meat instead of covering it up.

Combination plates are a sensible way to explore the barbecue side of the menu. They can bring ribs together with pulled pork, brisket and hot links, turning lunch or dinner into an informal tasting of several styles rather than a one-meat commitment.

The sliced brisket is lean, well cooked and flavorful enough to hold its own without sauce. Pulled pork comes in a notably large sandwich for diners who would rather keep things simple, while smoked wings and rib ends provide two more routes into the smokehouse menu.

Rib ends, in particular, are the sort of order that rewards anyone who likes the irregular, richly seasoned bits from the edge of the rack. They are not as tidy as a full rib, which is precisely their appeal.

Green chile stew gives the menu a distinctly New Mexico direction. The bowl is built with tender beef and potatoes and comes with a warm tortilla, making it a meal in its own right rather than a small side note beside the ribs.

This is a generous serving, well suited to a cool day or a diner who wants something spoonable after a long stretch on the road. A large bowl can easily leave enough for another meal.

Barbecue plates need dependable supporting players, and there is no shortage of them here: smoked beans, potato salad, macaroni and cheese, fries, onion rings and fried okra all make the rounds. The selection is broad enough that a table can divide a few baskets and bowls without everyone ordering the same thing.

The fried okra is especially notable. Crisp, familiar and well suited to barbecue, it has developed a following even among diners who have sampled plenty of versions elsewhere in New Mexico.

The house-made chips and salsa make a good opening nibble while the table decides between brisket and ribs. They also underline that this is not a menu built solely around one smoking pit; there are small, satisfying detours throughout the meal.

There are useful alternatives for a mixed group. Beyond the traditional barbecue choices, the menu includes a Buffalo burger, ribeye sandwich, chicken-fried steak and chicken Caesar wrap, along with salads that can take a lighter turn.

One spring-greens special paired smoked salmon with pickled onions and shallot dressing, a combination that shows a little range without abandoning the kitchen's affection for smoke. Current offerings can vary, but the broader menu helps when one person wants ribs and another is in the mood for a sandwich or salad.

Key lime pie is the homemade dessert to watch for. After a plate of smoked meat, creamy macaroni and cheese, and a spoonful or two of beans, its tart, cool direction makes a sensible finish.

A meal may arrive with wet wipes, a small practical kindness that barbecue fans will appreciate. Sauce on the fingers is a perfectly acceptable condition of dinner, but it is nice not to have to hunt for a remedy afterward.

The service is warm, attentive and helpful, matching the relaxed tone of the dining room. Families, friends and larger parties fit naturally into the setup, and the restaurant has accommodated groups that include children.

There is indoor dining as well as patio or terrace seating, and a free parking lot is available, though conditions can vary from visit to visit. The restaurant also works for pickup when the better plan is to bring a bundle of barbecue, sides and dessert back to the family table.