At Peacock Alley in Bismarck, dinner comes with old-West character built into the room. The restaurant and pub occupy a distinctive historic building, and its architecture does more than provide a backdrop: it gives the indoor spaces much of their personality.

Historical photographs and displays about the building and the surrounding area provide reasons to look up from the menu. The rooms are well lit and cozy, with enough period detail to make lingering over a drink or a second cup of coffee perfectly reasonable.

This is a place that can be approached as a full sit-down meal, a casual stop for a beer and an appetizer, or a longer pub evening. The menu is broad enough that a table can move in several directions at once, from steaks and burgers to seafood, bowls and shareable starters.

A bar room and a quieter dining room

The layout separates the visit into distinct moods. A bar room sits near the main entrance, a corridor connects the bar and restaurant areas, and an outdoor patio adds another seating option.

The bar is the livelier, louder side of Peacock Alley, suited to a drink-focused stop or a more social gathering. The restaurant seating area is comparatively quieter and makes more sense for a meal where conversation is high on the agenda.

Reservations are not generally required. Downtown visitors will find free street parking and a parking garage mentioned among the available options, though availability can vary.

A menu with room to roam

The useful thing about a large menu is that it does not force a group into one style of meal. One person can settle into a steak while another goes for a bowl, a burger, seafood or an appetizer-heavy table spread.

Several meat dishes have been noted for using meat from Drake, North Dakota, a regional detail that gives the menu a little more local grounding without turning every plate into a history lesson.

Portions tend toward filling. That is welcome news when the table has ordered a substantial entrée, less welcome only if you had also planned to make serious progress on the appetizer list.

Burgers with a little swagger

The Dakota Grand Slam Burger is one of the more memorable burger constructions: a juicy patty, crispy bacon and hot honey meant for drizzling, all on a bun that has drawn notice in its own right. It arrives with fries and has the satisfying excess of a pub burger that does not apologize for itself.

At other points, burger specials have taken a breakfast turn, using waffle buns, over-easy eggs and hollandaise sauce. Specials change, but that combination gives a good sense of the kitchen's willingness to play around with familiar comfort food.

Wings, pretzels and sweet potato fries

The smoked wings are notably large and carry a pronounced smoky flavor. They come with fries and a choice of dipping sauce; spicy ranch has been a particularly good partner for the wings.

For a group starter, the soft pretzel takes an intentionally oversized route. The “mega” description is not subtle marketing here; this is a genuinely shareable plate best ordered by people prepared to pull apart a lot of pretzel.

Sweet potato waffle fries with marshmallow dip offer another playful detour. It is a sweet-and-salty combination that sits comfortably beside beer and bar snacks, especially when a table wants something less predictable than a standard basket of fries.

Asian nachos are also among the menu items that keep the appetizer portion from feeling routine. Peacock Alley gives snack-minded diners plenty to work with before an entrée ever arrives.

Walleye and heartier plates

Walleye appears in more than one form, including walleye fingers and pecan-crusted walleye. The two preparations let the fish play either a casual, fingers-and-dipping-sauce role or a more composed dinner role.

The rest of the menu continues to range widely. A Thai peanut bowl and a rice peanut bowl bring a different flavor profile to the table, while steak stroganoff offers a rich, familiar cold-weather sort of comfort.

For diners looking toward the steak side of the menu, there have been plates such as flatiron steak with wild rice and hanger steak. It is a good counterweight to the more playful burger-and-wings side of the restaurant.

Breakfast and dessert deserve a look

Peacock Alley is not limited to lunch and dinner territory. A breakfast skillet is among the morning options that have stood out, fitting the restaurant's preference for substantial plates over dainty ones.

Dessert can be worth saving room for, particularly the cheesecake. After smoked wings, a burger with hot honey, or a steak dinner, a slice of cheesecake is a pretty convincing argument for pacing yourself.

Beer for the pub side of the visit

The beer selection is a major piece of the Peacock Alley identity, with a broad list that includes several beers brewed in-house. That gives the bar more purpose than simply being a place to wait for a table.

A drink can be a brief stop in the bar room, an accompaniment to a basket of wings, or the start of a longer meal in the dining area. The historic surroundings keep even a simple beer-and-pretzel order from feeling generic.

Helpful people in a big-menu house

With so many possible directions on the menu, a little guidance helps. Service has a friendly, helpful reputation, particularly when it comes to suggesting dishes or discussing variations on an order.

That is useful at a place where one visit might center on pecan-crusted walleye and wild rice, while the next could be a patio drink, sweet potato waffle fries and a shareable pretzel. Peacock Alley has enough range that returning with a different appetite is a sensible plan.