A tree trunk rising upright from a North Dakota hillside is an odd enough sight. When that trunk is petrified, surrounded by equally ancient stumps and open prairie instead of a living woodland, it becomes the sort of thing that stops a hike in its tracks.

The Petrified Forest Trail is a remote, roughly 10- to 11-mile loop through broad grassland, valleys and high plateaus. It is not a walk through a shaded grove. The trees are stone, the terrain is open, and the views reach well beyond the formations that brought you there.

Petrified wood occurs in forest areas on both the north and south sides of the loop. That gives the outing a pleasing rhythm: hike through the prairie, drop or climb into another fold of the landscape, then come upon trunks and stumps that look almost misplaced against the wide North Dakota sky.

A forest without living trees

The unusual scale of the wood is a large part of the appeal. These are not just small fragments scattered on the ground; the formations include entire standing trunks and clusters of petrified stumps. Their shapes can be handsome, strange and unexpectedly tree-like all at once.

Standing trunks give the area a different character from a typical fossil display. Rather than looking into a case or examining one object at a time, you move through an open landscape where the remnants of trees remain part of the terrain.

There is plenty to photograph, but it is worth slowing down long enough to look at the individual forms. A stump cluster, a tall upright trunk and a scattered stretch of weathered wood each make a different kind of landmark.

The route through prairie and valleys

The hike begins at a free parking area and soon leaves the ordinary comforts of a developed stop behind. From there, the route heads into open country, crossing valley terrain and climbing toward plateau sections where the landscape begins to spread out.

One of the first petrified-forest areas comes after a descent from the parking area, a valley crossing and a climb. That sequence sets the tone for the full route: relatively level open stretches are broken by steeper drops and climbs into the valleys.

The trail is generally well worn, and at the north-south split there are route markers or a visible path to help keep the choice clear. Still, this is a backcountry hike rather than a paved interpretive stroll. The ground and the wildlife can have their own ideas about how the day will go.

North or south

The full loop allows time in petrified-wood areas on both sides, but it is not the only way to see the place. A shorter out-and-back walk to one forest area makes sense for hikers who want the stone trees without committing to the entire circuit.

The north side is often considered the side with more to see, though it also asks more of the hiker. Steeper passages and the general length of the route make the full loop more demanding than its open-country appearance might suggest.

Some people complete the outing in four or five hours. Others take much longer, especially when they linger at the formations, stop for the scenery or have to alter their route around wildlife. The mileage is only one measure of the day.

Bison can rewrite the itinerary

Bison are frequently encountered on or near the trail, and they are not background scenery to treat casually. A herd can occupy the route and turn a planned loop into a wait, a detour or a substantial off-trail workaround.

Hikers have sometimes needed to travel several hundred yards around bison rather than pass closely. One notably large herd numbered more than 100 animals. That is a useful reminder that the marked trail is not always an uninterrupted corridor through this landscape.

Give bison ample space, stay alert and be ready to wait or change course. A dust-rolling bison near the northern forest area is a memorable image, but the sensible response to any close encounter is patience, not a closer look.

Other company on a quiet trail

Bison get the attention, but they are not the only animals in the open country. Wild horses have been seen near the trail, including horses watching hikers as they left the forest area. Birds, toads and snakes add smaller notes of life along the way.

The route often has a notably secluded character. Beyond the opening stretch, hikers may see few people, sometimes only a handful of other groups over the course of the entire loop.

That quiet makes the scenery feel larger. Valleys, plateaus and prairie have room to be themselves here, without a line of hikers constantly moving through the view.

A hike with very little shade

The openness is beautiful, but it also matters practically. There is very little shade along the route, and hot weather can make the long loop feel substantially harder.

Plenty of water, sun protection, a hat, snacks and suitable footwear belong in the plan. Insect and tick protection can also be useful. There are no toilets or water conveniences at the trail area, so the supplies need to come with you.

Trekking poles can be welcome on the steeper descents and climbs. In spring, melting snow may leave sticky mud and soft ground hidden beneath a surface that looks dry, while spear-grass seeds can hitch a ride on socks, pants and shoes.

Getting out to the trailhead

Reaching the trail is part of its remote character. The approach includes a long drive on dirt and gravel roads through open country, often reported as roughly 16 to 20 miles depending on the route taken.

The park’s driving directions from the Visitor Center are important for this trip. Map apps have directed drivers toward unsuitable or private roads, an annoyance best avoided before the hiking day even begins.

In dry conditions, the approach has been manageable for ordinary low-clearance vehicles. After substantial rain, dirt roads can become difficult, and spring thaw can bring deep, sticky mud to both the access route and the trail.

Parking at the trailhead is free, though the amount of available space can vary. Once the car is behind you, there are no facilities to soften the backcountry feel—just the worn trail, the broad country ahead and, somewhere out there, a forest made of stone.