A Meal Beside the Rails at The Depot in Mitchell

A passing train has a way of interrupting a meal in the best possible manner. At The Depot in Mitchell, the tracks run alongside the restaurant, and a lunch of burgers, sandwiches or a cold draft can come with the moving backdrop of rail cars rolling through town.

The setting is a restored historic train station, not a newly built restaurant with a railroad sign hung on the wall. Railway-themed details and the depot building itself give the place a character that goes well beyond the usual sports-bar menu.

It is an easy stop after time at Mitchell's Corn Palace, which is a short drive away. But The Depot has enough going on to justify lingering: indoor dining, bar seating, a patio, a game room and a menu broad enough for a family table where nobody has agreed on the same thing.

The restaurant's most memorable feature is also the least programmable. The adjacent rail line remains active, so train watching depends on timing rather than a schedule posted over the table. When a train does come through, it gives the room a little extra motion and makes the historic setting feel especially well chosen.

Some patio tables, along with seats near the patio door, offer a view of the tracks. The patio is particularly appealing in the spring through fall, when a casual meal outdoors can include an eye on the rails without turning lunch into a formal outing.

Inside, the atmosphere carries a touch of old passenger-car romance while remaining relaxed and practical. There is room for booths, counter seats and larger gatherings, plus a private dining room for groups that need their own space.

The appetizer list gives a table several ways to settle in before choosing the main event. A Train Wreck sampler brings together a range of starter tastes and has included deep-fried pickles, making it a sensible choice for a group that would rather sample than commit.

Steak bites, chislic and fried cheese curds made with Waters Edge cheese take the menu in a decidedly Upper Midwest direction. These are not fussy starter plates; they are the sort of things that work with a draft beer, a round of conversation and an unhurried look at the train activity outside.

Complementary popcorn has also been served at the table, a small old-school touch that suits a place built around casual hanging out. It is a nice nibble while deciding between the many fried-potato possibilities: waffle fries, spiral fries or house-made chips.

The Depot's menu stretches well beyond burgers, but the burger side of the operation has plenty of personality. The bison kielbasa burger, served with house-made chips, brings a richer, more distinctive option to a category that can otherwise become predictable.

Then there is the Dilly Burger, a named house option that adds a little fun to the list. The Bourbon Burger moves in a more substantial direction, with shaved prime rib, sautéed peppers and cheese.

For diners who want the comfort of a bar-and-grill plate without the same old sandwich, those choices help. A grilled chicken sandwich and a Philly sandwich offer other familiar routes through the menu.

A broad American menu is useful when a table includes one person craving a burger, another looking for salad, and someone else who has decided lunch needs to involve seafood. The Depot covers sandwiches, chicken, salads, wraps, tacos, seafood dishes and daily specials rather than forcing everyone into one narrow lane.

The walleye sandwich has arrived with a large portion and a crisp coating, offering a good departure from the burger basket. Seafood mac and country fried steak take the menu in two very different comfort-food directions, while taco salad provides a lighter-looking but still filling alternative.

That range makes The Depot workable for a quick bite as well as a longer meal. You can keep it simple with a sandwich and chips, or give the table a few starters and let everyone order in a different direction.

The Depot operates as a restaurant, bar and microbrewery, with a substantial beer selection that includes local craft beer on draft. That gives the food menu an appropriate partner, especially alongside fried curds, steak bites or a burger built for a hearty appetite.

Wine and cocktails are also available, so the non-beer drinker is not left studying a single short list. Staff can help explain the beverage choices, useful when the draft board offers more possibilities than a familiar light lager.

The bar seating makes sense for a drink and a casual meal, while the larger dining areas keep the place from functioning only as a stop for beer. Couples, families and groups can all find a natural way to use the room.

Families have more to work with here than a token children's menu. Kids meals are available, and creamy macaroni has been a popular choice with younger diners.

The game room on the east side of the building gives restless preteens and waiting families another outlet. It also means the restaurant can handle a meal that lasts a little longer than planned, which is not a bad thing when the table is sharing appetizers and watching for trains.

Dessert continues the casual fun. Beignets and a chocolate chimichanga are options for anyone who wants to end on a more elaborate note, while the root beer float pairs vanilla-bean ice cream with a classic soda-counter idea.

Free parking is available in a large lot, an uncomplicated advantage for travelers making a meal stop during a Mitchell visit. The Corn Palace's proximity also makes The Depot a convenient addition to a day spent around one of the city's best-known sights.

The room can be easy to talk in, though busier periods can bring more volume. With indoor tables, bar seats and seasonal patio seating, diners have a few ways to match the visit to the weather, the size of the group and the hope of catching a train on the move.