Smoke, Cheddar Grits and Craft Beer at Prohibition Pig in Waterbury

A plate of brisket, sliced tender and juicy, is a fine reason to stop in Waterbury. At Prohibition Pig, the barbecue has a deep-South foundation, but the details keep pulling the meal northward: Vermont cheddar folded into grits, maple butter melting over cornbread, and a bar built for craft beer, whiskey and cocktails with some nerve.

This is a smokehouse meal with plenty of choices beyond the standard brisket-and-ribs routine. Smoked turkey, chicken thighs, wings, burnt ends, barbecue ribs and fried ribs all have a place on the menu, making it easy for a table to go broad rather than settle on a single tray of meat.

The setting suits a long lunch or an unhurried evening. The dining room runs dark, cozy and intimate through much of the space, with a livelier bar-and-music energy around it. A few tables near the front windows offer the brightest seats in the house.

Brisket is the dependable place to begin. It arrives with the qualities people hope for from a serious barbecue stop: tenderness, moisture and smoke-forward flavor without turning the meat into a project for the knife.

The smoked turkey deserves attention too. Turkey can be an afterthought on a barbecue menu, but here it stands alongside the more traditional beef and pork choices. Smoked chicken thighs offer another satisfying route, especially when paired with the restaurant’s green salad and its maple-Dijon vinaigrette.

Then there are burnt ends, those richly seasoned, caramelized bites that can turn a straightforward lunch into something more indulgent. They work particularly well with grits and potato salad, a plate that moves from smoky meat to creamy, tangy comfort food without much fuss.

Ribs appear in two forms. Standard barbecue ribs cover the familiar slow-cooked craving, while fried ribs take the idea in a different direction entirely. The latter are a distinct preparation, crisp outside and far more playful than the usual rack.

The restaurant keeps several barbecue sauces on hand, so a plate need not stay tied to one regional style. An Eastern Carolina-style sauce provides a sharper, more tangy counterpoint to the richness of brisket, ribs and burnt ends.

That variety matters on a menu with so many fatty, smoky, crispy elements. A little sauce can brighten a bite; a little restraint leaves room for the meat itself. It is a good setup for a table that likes to compare rather than commit.

The Vermont cheddar grits are not merely a side dish pushed to the edge of the plate. Cheddar gives them a pronounced savory character, and the grits bring a soft, creamy base to smoked meats with plenty of bark and crust.

Duck fat fries take the meal in the opposite direction: crisp, salty and rich, with an optional duck-fat dip for anyone who thinks plain ketchup is being a little too sensible. They are a natural shared starter, though the portion may not stay shared for long.

Mac and cheese comes under a scattering of cornbread crumbs. That extra topping adds sweetness and crunch, making the dish more textured than the usual creamy bowl of pasta.

Potato salad, greens with sausage and cornbread round out the Southern-style sideboard. The greens are especially useful when the table has ordered generously; they bring a more savory, vegetable-based note without pretending this is a light meal.

Cornbread arrives with maple butter, a small Vermont-minded flourish that makes it easy to linger over before the main plates land. The sweetness is familiar with barbecue, but the maple gives it a regional accent.

The cornbread idea follows through to dessert in the form of cornbread churros. It is a fun turn for a smokehouse kitchen, taking a staple from the bread basket into treat territory.

A chocolate-chip skillet cookie goes even further into the restaurant’s rich cooking style. It is made with bacon drippings rather than butter, an unapologetically savory foundation beneath the chocolate.

Prohibition Pig has a few useful departures for a mixed group. The blue burger can be ordered with bacon, and the fried chicken sandwich has earned a reputation as a memorable choice when barbecue is not the plan for every person at the table.

Salads get more attention than one might expect from a restaurant devoted to smoked meat. Along with the green salad with maple-Dijon vinaigrette, there is a kale salad and a fresh crushed cucumber salad.

House pickles make a bright appetizer before the heavier dishes begin. A roasted-carrot special has also appeared alongside the cucumber salad, another example of the kitchen giving vegetables a real spot on the table rather than treating them as decoration.

Vegetarian dishes are identified on the menu, though the center of gravity remains firmly with barbecue and rich comfort food. The restaurant has also accommodated some gluten-free and celiac dining needs, but anyone with a strict dietary requirement should confirm current choices and preparation details directly.

The bar is a substantial reason to sit down rather than simply grab barbecue to go. Craft beer has a broad presence, whiskey is well represented, and the cocktail list offers more than the expected bourbon-and-cola approach.

Drinks can be imaginative and bold, including a cocktail called Love in Paris. That makes a nice contrast with the sturdy food: a plate of ribs and fries can still be followed by something more playful than another pint.

Beer drinkers have plenty of room to explore as well. A Valentino Italian-style draft has appeared among the pours, a reminder that the selection is not restricted to one narrow idea of what goes with barbecue.

The neighboring ProPig brewery turns dinner into an easy two-stop Waterbury outing. The brewery has its own smaller menu, separate from the restaurant’s, so the two places are complementary rather than interchangeable.

The brewery patio can also be useful for a more open-air meal. Restaurant takeout has been paired with patio seating next door, allowing a group to combine barbecue from Prohibition Pig with brewery selections in one sitting.

That distinction is worth keeping in mind when choosing where to settle in. The main restaurant is the darker, indoor, bar-centered setting; patio seating belongs with the brewery next door.

The room can be lively and loud, particularly around the bar, but conversation remains possible. Those who prefer more natural light may appreciate the front tables by the large windows; deeper into the dining room, the mood is considerably dimmer.

Street parking and paid lots have been used nearby. For seating, an online waitlist has at times allowed diners to track a party’s progress before arriving, though availability can vary.

A good visit can be as simple as brisket, cheddar grits and a beer. Or it can become a longer spread of pickles, cucumber salad, fried ribs, duck fat fries, cornbread churros and a final stop next door for another pour.