At Brock's Barbeque, the tempting decision is not necessarily which barbecue plate to order. It may be whether to start with the buffet instead. In a restaurant category usually built around a single tray of meat and a couple of sides, Brock's puts out a spread that lets diners sample smoky pork, chicken, Southern vegetables, comfort-food classics and a salad bar in one pass.

That buffet is the center of the visit: broad, tidy and built for a plate that can change with every trip back. A diner might begin with chopped pork and slaw, add chicken and green beans on the next round, then decide the hush puppies deserve another spot on the plate. It is a generous format for anyone who dislikes having to choose just one side.

The restaurant has the relaxed, straightforward air of a local diner, with a clean dining room, indoor seating and an easy pace that leaves room for conversation. Warm service and prompt seating help keep the experience uncomplicated. There is also a free parking lot with plenty of room, a small convenience that is easy to appreciate before a big meal.

A buffet made for sampling

The appeal of barbecue buffet dining is simple: you can follow your own appetite. Go heavy on meat, make a meal of sides, try a little of everything, or build a plate around the one item that catches your eye. Brock's selection can include barbecue meats alongside Southern-style sides, so a first visit does not have to be a one-item commitment.

Chopped or shredded pork is a particularly good place to begin. It is smoky, moist and well seasoned, with the tender, loose texture associated with chopped barbecue rather than long, stringy strands. Sliced pork has also been noted for staying moist and flavorful, useful news for diners who prefer their barbecue in more defined slices.

Chicken holds its own beside the pork. Tender, moist chicken has been a recurring favorite, and fried chicken brings a separate, well-seasoned comfort-food note to the table. Fried chicken livers are another less-common option to watch for, especially welcome for people who still appreciate this old-school Southern dish.

Sides that deserve their own plate space

The supporting cast is not treated as an afterthought here. Collard greens, green beans, macaroni and cheese, baked beans, mashed potatoes, corn and slaw give the buffet the proper Southern-meal range. A plate with pork, greens and macaroni and cheese can be as satisfying as any carefully assembled barbecue combination.

The collards, green beans and macaroni and cheese have been especially memorable, each bringing a different kind of comfort: savory greens, familiar beans and creamy pasta. Baked beans make a natural match for the smoke of the meats, while slaw provides the cool, crisp contrast that barbecue plates need.

Then there are the hush puppies. They may seem like a small item amid the meats and casseroles, but they have been singled out as a reason to save some room. A basket-worthy hush puppy has a way of disappearing faster than intended, particularly when there is barbecue sauce nearby.

When a menu order is the better move

The buffet is a strong argument for lingering, but Brock's also offers made-to-order dishes for diners who already know what they want. That makes the restaurant workable for a quick lunch, a focused barbecue plate or a dinner where one person wants a sandwich while another wants a full sampler.

The Pitmaster sandwich is one named option for a more handheld route through the menu. For the diner who wants variety without making a buffet plate, the smokehouse platter is designed as a multi-meat meal, combining ribs, pulled chicken and brisket with two sides.

Brisket, pulled chicken, baked beans and macaroni and cheese are among the dishes worth considering when ordering directly from the menu. Barbecue sauces round out the table, letting diners adjust the sweetness, tang or extra smoke according to their own barbecue habits.

A surprising detour into fried seafood

Fried clam strips are an unusual thing to find on the menu at a barbecue stop, and that is precisely why they stand out. For someone in the mood to skip the standard pulled-pork order, they offer a pleasantly unexpected change of direction without leaving the comfort-food territory.

Clam strips have appeared as part of a Wednesday dinner buffet, though buffet offerings and service times can vary by day. Anyone making a special trip for them, or for a particular buffet lineup, should confirm the day's schedule with the restaurant first.

Leave room for dessert

A barbecue buffet can encourage optimism at the beginning of the meal and restraint near the end, but dessert is worth keeping in mind before the plate gets too ambitious. Peach cobbler brings the familiar warm-fruit finish that suits a Southern buffet, while carrot cake offers a richer, more traditional slice-of-cake option.

The restaurant's dining style suits both approaches: a quick lunch built around one favorite meat, or a more leisurely dinner of small samples, sides and a final sweet bite. Many meals have fallen in an economical range, though current prices and buffet schedules are best checked directly before a visit.