A plate of brisket, ribs, sausage, barbecue and wings is a cheerful way to settle the question of what to order. In Farmville, this relaxed restaurant gives diners permission to want more than one thing: smoked meat one minute, catfish or shrimp the next, with familiar burgers, sandwiches and Southern sides waiting further down the menu.

That range makes the room especially handy for mixed groups. One person can stay faithful to pulled pork, another can order a seafood basket, and somebody else can go straight for a crispy chicken sandwich without anyone having to compromise on dinner.

It is a comfortable stop for a casual meal, but not a narrow one. The menu has the generous, slightly hard-to-resist quality of a place where fried pickles can precede a barbecue sampler and macaroni and cheese can be a side dish or part of the main event.

Start with something meant to share

Fried pickles arrive as a substantial opener rather than a token basket, and fresh-fried pork rinds offer another salty, crunchy route into the meal. Both suit a table that has not yet agreed on its main courses.

The crab-and-spinach dip takes a more indulgent direction. It is served in a sourdough bread bowl, with a creamy, cheesy richness that puts it firmly in the linger-over-it category. The bread bowl also makes this more than a scoop-and-go appetizer; it gives the table something to pull apart between bites.

There is also a shrimp appetizer with a noticeable kick and an unusual texture. It is a good reminder that the seafood side of the menu is not limited to fried baskets, even though a well-executed fried basket has its own enduring appeal.

A barbecue order can be as broad as you want it to be

Pulled pork, beef brisket, ribs, barbecue sandwiches and smoked wings form the backbone of the barbecue choices. A diner who knows exactly what they want can keep the order simple, but samplers are built for the happily undecided.

The platters can combine brisket, ribs, sausage, barbecue and wings, turning lunch or dinner into a small survey of the smokehouse side of the kitchen. For travelers passing through Farmville, that can be more satisfying than trying to guess which single item represents the menu best.

Sauce matters here, too. Diners can move among spicy, sweet and vinegar-based styles, a useful arrangement when one person wants heat and another wants a sharper, tangier finish. A spicy Texas-style sauce is one of the bolder choices on the table.

The butcher paper covering the tables adds a practical barbecue-house note. It suits ribs, wings and any meal that may get a little gloriously messy around the edges.

Catfish gets more than one turn

Catfish appears in several forms, which keeps it from being a single obligatory seafood entry. It can show up in baskets, as bites, in tacos or as a dinner plate, leaving room for a quick lunch, a child-friendly order or a more traditional sit-down meal.

The catfish tacos make a particularly good midday choice with cabbage and baked beans alongside. It is a Southern-style combination without requiring a full barbecue platter, and it gives the menu a little welcome flexibility.

For families, catfish bites can be an easy middle ground between seafood and finger food. Paired with hush puppies and macaroni and cheese, they make a meal that younger diners can approach without much ceremony.

Sandwiches and burgers for the non-barbecue contingent

The sandwich list helps explain why a group can settle in without everybody wanting the same cuisine. The Super Fly chicken sandwich brings crispy chicken together with toppings and bang bang sauce, giving it a little more personality than a plain fried-chicken sandwich.

The Chesapeake burger takes an even more unusual route, incorporating crab dip into a burger. It is a seafood-minded choice for someone who wants beef but is not ready to leave the coastal side of the menu behind.

A Philly cheesesteak is another sizable option, known for a generous portion. That sort of sandwich has its place on a menu like this: dependable, filling and likely to satisfy the diner who had no intention of ordering ribs or catfish in the first place.

The sides are not an afterthought

Hush puppies, macaroni and cheese, baked beans, coleslaw and potato salad cover the expected Southern sideboard, but each changes the shape of a plate. Baked beans make sense beside catfish tacos or smoked meat; hush puppies bring their own crisp little punctuation to a seafood order.

The macaroni and cheese can also arrive in a skillet with pulled pork, moving from supporting role to full comfort-food centerpiece. It is the sort of dish that makes it reasonable to skip the usual sides and build a meal around one warm, rich bowl.

The coleslaw takes a savory rather than sweet direction, a useful match for a pulled pork sandwich. Potato salad is mayonnaise-based, keeping it squarely in classic picnic-table territory.

French fries are crisp, and sweet potato fries give the table another option when the usual fry basket has been called into service for sandwiches, burgers and dipping sauce. It is not hard to imagine a few disappearing before the main plates arrive.

A room built for an unhurried meal

The setting is laid-back, clean and comfortable, mixing Southern touches with a more current look. A neon sign gives the interior one bright visual punctuation mark, while booths, indoor tables and counter seating allow the room to accommodate different styles of meal.

There is also a bar area, where prepared drinks and branded glassware add another layer to the visit. Staff can help explain the menu and offer local recommendations, a pleasant extra for people getting their bearings in town.

For warmer, cooperative weather, outdoor patio or terrace seating provides another place to eat. That option naturally depends on conditions, but the choice between dining room, bar and patio keeps the restaurant from feeling like a one-note lunch counter.

Useful for families, groups and passing travelers

Couples can keep the meal simple, while families and larger groups have enough variety to make ordering easy. The restaurant has handled groups of at least seven, and the broad spread of sandwiches, barbecue, seafood and sides means nobody has to be the lone holdout.

A free parking lot with plenty of spaces makes the stop straightforward for people arriving by car. The restaurant also works well as a meal break for travelers moving through the area: order a sampler for the table, add a few sides, and make the stop more interesting than another standard roadside sandwich.

Lunch can draw a crowd, though seating has moved along reasonably even during busy periods. Once settled, the menu gives diners plenty of ways to build a meal, from a brisket-and-ribs plate to catfish tacos with beans, or simply crisp fries beside a crab-dip-topped burger.