Wooden floors, railroad-era surroundings and a grand old wooden bar give the Depot Grille a setting that does more than frame a meal. The building carries the personality of its train-station past without making dinner feel like a museum visit. It is warm, comfortable and busy in the useful way a longtime gathering place ought to be.

You can make a short stop of it with a cocktail and an appetizer at the bar, or settle in for brunch, dinner or a celebratory meal. The restaurant also has the adjacent Depot Lounge for drinks after dinner, so the evening does not have to end when the plates are cleared.

A bar with a story

The classic wooden bar is the room’s visual anchor. It has the substantial, polished presence that invites a person to take a stool rather than hurry through a drink, and the full bar selection includes cocktails, beer and wine.

The Depot Grille shares a particular story about the bar: it was moved from a hotel in Albany. That bit of provenance suits the building nicely. Even without knowing the backstory, the bar looks like an object with somewhere to have been.

For a relaxed late-afternoon visit, happy hour runs from 4 to 7 p.m. with food and drink specials. Loaded potato skins, made from large baked potatoes with bacon and cheese, offer a pleasantly unfussy companion to a cold beer or a cocktail.

A menu built for mixed company

The menu has enough range to make the restaurant easy to choose when nobody in the group wants quite the same thing. There are substantial entrées, sandwiches, salads, appetizers and desserts, with chicken, salmon, crab and prime rib among the dishes that regularly draw attention.

Weekend prime rib arrives with au jus, and the sauce can be served on the side upon request. Steak medallions with mushrooms make another more traditional dinner choice, with sides such as baked potatoes, steamed broccoli and mashed potatoes appearing elsewhere on the menu.

Seafood turns up in several forms. The crab cake sandwich is a worthwhile lunch-minded order, while oysters offer a natural route for a bar snack or an opening course before a larger dinner.

Fried mushrooms, chicken dishes and other familiar comfort-food territory keep the food grounded. This is a menu that can accommodate a full dinner without making a simple sandwich and a drink seem like an afterthought.

A salad with more going on

The Toosday Chicken Salad is not a token green option. Mixed greens are paired with Granny Smith apples, candied pecans, feta, mesquite-grilled chicken and poppyseed dressing, giving it sweetness, crunch and enough substance to stand in for an entrée.

The salmon BLT takes another familiar format in a different direction, bringing salmon together with crisp toast and tomato. A glass of Malbec is an easy match if lunch has turned into an unhurried afternoon.

Brunch can be as casual as you want it to be

Brunch has its own personality here, with eggs Benedict, a brunch burger and chicken tenders among the options. That combination is helpful for tables where one person wants a classic brunch plate and another would rather skip straight to a burger.

Raspberry mimosas add a festive note without requiring the meal to become overly formal. The restaurant works just as well for a small catch-up as it does for a birthday table or a larger family outing.

Paper-covered tables and crayons give younger diners something to do while food is on the way. It is a small touch, but a practical one, and it helps explain why the room can accommodate families alongside bar regulars and couples out for the evening.

Booths, patio tables and room to gather

The dining choices extend beyond one main room. Seating has included booths, counter seats, bar seating and an outdoor patio or terrace, offering a few different ways to use the building depending on the weather and the shape of the outing.

A private dining room adds another option for celebrations and group meals, and the event space can be toured separately from the main dining areas. The restaurant’s old-station character gives an event setting more personality than a standard banquet room.

Conversation is generally comfortable here, though the room can reach a moderate level of noise at busier times. The scale of the place helps: there are distinct places to sit rather than one single dining format.

The bridge out back

Behind the building, a restored walking bridge extends the railroad-era atmosphere beyond the dining room. It is a nice small detour after a meal, particularly for anyone who appreciates the old infrastructure that gives the Depot Grille its name and setting.

Local accounts connect the bridge’s survival to a fundraising effort that kept it from being demolished. Whatever route brought it forward, the bridge adds a tangible outdoor piece to the restaurant’s historic surroundings.

Finish with cobbler

For dessert, blackberry cobbler comes topped with ice cream and whipped cream. It is the sort of generous, familiar finish that suits a meal of prime rib, crab, chicken or a hearty sandwich.

Free parking and some free street parking are available, although spaces can be difficult during busy periods. The entrance includes steps, and hours can run relatively early, so checking current hours before heading over is sensible.