Ape Cave Offers Two Very Different Underground Adventures

Ape Cave begins with a sharp change of worlds: bright forest outside, then complete darkness and a chill that can hover around 42 degrees inside the lava tube. The passages are large enough in places to feel almost cathedral-like, but the darkness keeps the scale a little mysterious until a beam of light catches the rock ahead.

This is not a cave visit built around glass cases, paved corridors or a guide pointing out formations from behind a railing. Ape Cave is an underground outing with two distinct choices: the relatively easy Lower Cave walk or the much tougher Upper Cave route, where lava rock turns the trip into a sustained scramble.

The Lower Cave is the gentler introduction. It follows an out-and-back route of roughly three-quarters of a mile each way, with stairs along the way but no boulder climbing. It gives visitors plenty of time to absorb the unusual setting without turning the outing into a test of balance and upper-body strength.

For families, mixed-age groups, or anyone who mainly wants to see the lava tube itself, this is a satisfying route. Allow about 45 minutes to an hour, depending on how often the group stops to look around, adjust lights, or listen to the cave's oddly powerful acoustics.

The cave floor can include rocks, puddles and moist stretches, so it is still a real walk rather than a polished indoor attraction. Sturdy shoes with good traction are useful here, too, especially on damp or uneven lava rock.

The Upper Cave asks more of you almost immediately. Dense piles of boulders require careful foot placement, frequent use of both hands and a willingness to climb over, around and through obstacles rather than simply walk past them.

A prominent smooth rock wall, roughly seven to eight feet high, is one of the memorable challenges. A rope with a loop helps visitors get over it, but it remains a point where balance, leg strength and a little teamwork come in handy.

There is also a brief low section requiring a crawl. It is short, but it adds to the route's feeling that you are moving through a natural passage rather than following a conventional trail.

Families have enjoyed working through the Upper Cave together, including with children, but this should not be treated as an automatic family route. The repeated scrambling, uneven footing and climbing obstacles suit visitors who are comfortable bouldering and can keep their footing in low light.

Inside, dependable lighting is not a minor convenience. The cave is completely dark, and a phone light is a poor substitute for a proper lamp—particularly where hands are needed on rock. A bright headlamp is the practical favorite because it keeps both hands free for climbing, steadying yourself and helping a companion.

Lanterns and brighter lights may be rented outside the cave, along with some basic visitor supplies, but it is wise to confirm current availability before relying on a rental. Cell service may be unavailable around the cave area, another reason not to count on a phone for light or navigation.

The darkness also does interesting things to sound. A voice carries differently underground, and even a little group singing can ring out with surprising resonance. Then the lights swing forward again, finding rough walls, wet patches and the next uneven stretch of floor.

A warm summer day above ground does not predict conditions below. The cave stays cold throughout the year, and warm layers make the visit much more comfortable. Visitors who get cold easily often add a hat, gloves or hand warmers to the usual jacket or fleece.

Gardening-style gloves are a simple extra for the Upper Cave, where hands repeatedly meet rough lava rock. They are not a substitute for care, but they can make long boulder sections less punishing on the palms.

Footwear matters even more. Hiking shoes or boots with solid traction are useful on uneven, damp and occasionally slippery surfaces. Open footwear and flip-flops are a poor match for the cave's rocks, puddles and scrambling.

For the Upper route, a compact backpack is easier to live with than a bulky one. Large packs can get in the way when squeezing through tighter spots or reaching for handholds. Water is useful on either route, and a snack is worth bringing for the longer one.

The Upper Cave is not an out-and-back walk like the Lower route. After the underground climbing, the cave reaches its end near a skylight in the ceiling, and the route continues outside.

From there, the return to the parking area follows an easier surface trail through the woods. The walk commonly takes about 25 to 30 minutes, offering a welcome change from the close darkness and hard rock underfoot.

Steady groups may spend one to two hours underground on the Upper route, while slower groups can take considerably longer as they negotiate the boulders. Plan on two hours or more for the full Upper outing, including the return walk, and remember that wet outdoor conditions can affect that final trail.

Timed online registration is required for cave access. Parking has a designated area, but a parking pass or payment may be separate from cave registration, so the current system is worth checking before the drive.

The setting works well as an active day trip from the Portland area and can also fit into a longer outing from Seattle. A picnic and the wooded return walk can extend the day nicely, though the cave itself supplies plenty of adventure before anyone gets back to the car.