A Nostalgic Meal at Griffith and Feil in Kenova

A Vanilla Coke over crushed ice is a fine way to settle into Griffith and Feil, where the pharmacy shelves and the soda-fountain counter share the same old-fashioned address. This is a working full-service pharmacy, but it also has the pleasant rhythm of a neighborhood lunch counter: stools, café tables, fountain drinks and a menu built for an unhurried sandwich or a quick plate before getting back on the road.

The room has the cozy, collected look people hope for in an old soda fountain. Historic décor and bits of information on the walls give the place material to browse between bites, and staff members are happy to talk about the building, its history and the fountain offerings. It is not a theme restaurant trying to look old; the pharmacy remains central to the scene.

The drink list is a good reason not to rush through lunch. Griffith and Feil makes its own fountain sodas and offers a broad range of soda and shake flavors, giving a simple lunch a little more personality than a bottled drink from a cooler.

A house soda can be the whole stop if you only have time for a treat. The Vanilla Coke, served over crushed ice, has the familiar diner-counter appeal of a drink that is just a bit more fun than its grocery-store cousin.

For a fuller throwback order, there are root beer floats and milkshakes. The Oreo shake is a classic choice, rich in the way a proper fountain shake ought to be, with enough nostalgic pull to make lunch feel optional.

The café menu moves comfortably through sandwiches, fried favorites, soups and casual plates. It works for a fast lunch, but it is also broad enough that a family table can order around different appetites without everyone ending up with the same thing.

The Appalachian sandwich is a particularly regional-sounding number: grilled bologna, onions, mustard and cheese on toasted bread. It is the sort of sandwich that does not need a clever rewrite. Put those ingredients together, toast the bread, and it knows exactly what it is doing.

Hot dog fans can add the house sauce, described as slightly sweet. Fried green tomatoes bring another savory Southern note to the menu, while the onion rings have a fresh, hand-battered quality rather than the standard frozen-side-dish routine.

Other choices reported from the café include corn dogs, chicken tenders and fries, macaroni bites, chicken salad and chicken salad on a croissant. Lobster bisque is an unexpected entry in this otherwise homey mix, and a useful reminder that the menu is not confined to burgers-and-fries territory.

The Monte Cristo arrives hot and melty, playing its familiar sweet-savory game. It suits the soda-fountain setting especially well: substantial enough for lunch, but still a little playful.

The Berkley Turkey takes a more unusual route, pairing turkey with cream cheese, pineapple and a special sauce. That combination may sound like a lot on paper, which is exactly why it is worth having on a menu like this. A place with a historic counter should have at least a few sandwiches that inspire curiosity.

Breakfast is another reason Griffith and Feil can be more than a midday stop. Stuffed French toast comes filled with cream cheese and blueberries, with pineapple and bacon also appearing alongside the dish's sweet-and-salty profile.

It is a generous, old-school breakfast idea rather than a minimalist one. The combination of fruit, cream cheese and bacon gives it the sort of full plate appeal that makes a fountain seat feel like a good place to linger.

Games at the tables and near the soda-fountain stools add a small but welcome extra to the room. Children have something to do while waiting for food or working through a shake, and adults on an old-fashioned date may find themselves reaching for a game, too.

That simple detail helps explain the range of visits Griffith and Feil can accommodate. A family can come for lunch and a float; two people can split a dessert after a casual outing; travelers can make it a cheerful stop before continuing a longer drive.

The historic material displayed around the venue gives the café a browsing dimension. It is easy to look up from a sandwich, notice another object or wall panel, and ask a question about what you are seeing. The setting rewards a little curiosity.

For those who like a tangible memento, Griffith and Feil carries souvenirs connected to the soda fountain and Kenova Pumpkin House. A small souvenir is a fitting finish here; the place trades in the kind of local memory that is more enjoyable when it comes with a milkshake.

Despite all the reasons to sit awhile, carryout is available for a tighter schedule. Calling ahead can make sense when the stop is wedged between other plans.

Griffith and Feil has become a natural meal or treat stop around nearby outings, including trips to Camden Park and drives to or from the airport. But it does not need a larger itinerary to justify a visit. A sandwich, a fountain soda and a few minutes among the historic details make a perfectly good destination on their own.