A Northwoods Pub Meal With Fish Tanks, Friday Fry and Big Steaks

A very large bass gliding through an aquarium is not the usual dinner-table distraction, but here it is one of several oversized fish tanks built into a rustic Wisconsin pub setting. Children have plenty to inspect before the food arrives, and grown-ups tend to give the tanks a second look, too.

The room has the cozy, timbered character of a Northwoods lodge, with a substantial central bar anchoring the interior. It is a place for a casual burger and a cold drink, certainly, but the menu reaches well beyond bar food: steaks, regional fish, pasta, pizza, ribs, chicken, sandwiches, salads and breakfast all have a place.

Its location near the river, a boat landing and a public park gives the restaurant an easy role in a day outdoors. It can be a stop after time on the water, a hearty lunch before an afternoon elsewhere, or simply a dinner destination when a group cannot agree on one thing to eat.

The aquariums give the dining room a character that goes beyond standard lodge décor. The fish displays are stocked with local or Northwoods species, and the large bass has been a particular attention-getter. For families, they provide a welcome little occupation between ordering and the arrival of a basket of appetizers.

The central bar keeps the room connected to its pub side. Diners can settle into the main indoor dining area, choose the bar or counter seating, or use the outdoor patio or terrace when it is available. Cocktails and cold drinks fit naturally into the mix, especially for a meal that starts with something fried and shareable.

This is a setting that can handle several kinds of evenings at once: families working through a broad menu, couples having fish or steak, and groups gathering around the bar. During busy periods, particularly around popular specials, the room can become louder and seating can feel tighter.

One person can order a steak, another can go for walleye, and someone at the same table can decide pasta sounds better. That range is useful in a vacation area, where a party may include a hungry boater, a child who wants pizza, and a diner who has had their eye on a fish fry all day.

Burgers, sandwiches, ribs, chicken, salads and pizza give the menu its casual foundation. A mushroom-and-cheese burger comes with fries and coleslaw, while the roast beef sandwich has been noted for its generous size and its side of fries.

There are lighter or less traditional directions, too. A steak salad can serve as a full meal without committing to one of the larger steak plates, and fettuccine Alfredo offers a creamy pasta route for diners who are not in the mood for seafood or red meat.

Fish is a recurring strength here, and the choices go beyond one familiar Friday cod plate. Walleye, cod, perch and bluegill appear among the seafood and fish options, along with shrimp. The walleye dinner is notably substantial, and a crisp preparation has won particular praise.

Friday brings the traditional Wisconsin-style pull of fish fry, with a buffet that includes breaded fish and broasted chicken along with sides. It is a useful option for diners who would rather sample a little of both than settle on just one entrée.

The broasted chicken deserves its own mention rather than being treated as a fish-fry backup. It has been a favorite beside the fried fish, giving the buffet a second comfort-food lane for anyone who arrives with less enthusiasm for seafood.

Friday service naturally draws interest. At a rush, buffet pans may need replenishing, so a fresh batch can take a little time. Daily specials also rotate through the week, including a Wednesday bluegill special that has developed its own following.

The steak side of the menu is not an afterthought. Sirloin, New York strip and T-bone steaks have all stood out, making this a sensible place when a group splits between fish dinners and a more classic steak-and-potatoes appetite.

Prime rib can be paired with shrimp, ordered grilled or fried. The combination makes a good case for lingering over the menu rather than deciding too quickly; it gives a diner both a substantial cut of beef and a seafood addition on the same plate.

For the fried-shrimp version, lightly breaded shrimp has been especially well received. Horseradish sauce is a fitting companion for the prime rib, with enough bite to keep the richness of the plate from becoming too heavy.

Fried pickle spears are among the appetizers that can disappear quickly once they hit the table. They have become a particular highlight for diners who like a salty, tangy start with a little crunch.

Cheese curds are another Wisconsin essential handled with a lighter touch: delicately fried rather than weighed down with a thick coating. They pair easily with a drink at the bar, though they are just as likely to arrive at a family table before a round of burgers and fish.

Even the fries have a following. That may sound like a small detail on a menu filled with steak, fish and ribs, but a good fry matters when it is showing up alongside roast beef sandwiches, burgers and generous dinner plates.

Portion size is most evident in the fish dinners, where a walleye plate can be a serious meal. The restaurant is built for the kind of dinner where a basket of appetizers is shared, an entrée arrives with more than enough food, and nobody is in a hurry to claim they could use a snack afterward.

Still, cheesecake is worth saving room for. It has made a favorable finish after a steak dinner, offering a straightforward, familiar dessert rather than a fussy finale.

Free parking is available in an ample lot, a practical benefit for families, groups and anyone coming straight from the nearby boat landing or park. The range of seating also makes the place flexible: dining room for a meal, bar or counter for a more pub-centered stop, and outdoor seating when it is being offered.

The specials are worth checking before a visit, especially the Friday fish-and-chicken buffet. Those popular services can fill the room, but the restaurant's wide regular menu means there is plenty of ground to cover on an ordinary weekday as well.